[77] THE HOUSE IS IN MY VIEW one of the finest in the north, the interior and exterior elevations being magnificent. Owing to the L-shape of the building it is deceptive in size, as it gives the impression of being larger than it is. I always thought of it as a most comfortable home where every prospect pleased. I knew of nowhere I would sooner stay. The Seafields made things so happy for their guests, and it is a great loss that it is now empty.
A brief description of the house, taken from its Survey Book is quoted by kind permission of the Earl of Seafield:
Cullen House is a fine example of French Castellated architecture and its position on the rock 70 feet above Cullen Burn is impressive. It has been the home of the family since the 16th century when they moved from Findlater Castle, the ruins of which can be seen on the rugged coast between Cullen and Sandend. The oldest part of the house must be about 700 years old, as there is mention in the records of the Church of Cullen in 1232 a 'House on the Rock'. This was a Monastic School ... Cullen House is typical of many Scottish castles in which the influence of French architecture is evident. Up to the time of the Reformation ecclesiastical buildings in Scotland had been of great beauty. Subsequently many of these buildings declined and more attention was paid to secular architecture. Both interior and exterior decoration began to appear on the stone castles which, in some cases, had replaced wooden forts. Land- owners became more conscious of their surroundings and policies, parks and gardens were laid out. The Scottish garden in most cases is some distance from the house and Cullen House is a good example of this, as the large and productive garden is half a mile distance from the house. The beautiful policies were largely planned by the 5th Earl of Findlater who demolished the old town of Cullen, which was built around Cullen House and the Old Church. The church remains, as does part of the Estate Office and the Factor's House, named Old Cullen. The and Victorian enlargement of many of the great houses in Scotland... Exactly why this took place is not known, but presumably it was found desirable owing to the increasing demand for accommodation, for seasonal sporting activities, and no doubt Queen Victoria's acquisition of Balmoral and her increasing interest in Scotland must have encouraged these vast expenditures. In 1881 the house was harled; this was removed in 1945 and the stonework was picked and pointed, thus revealing the true beauty of the building with its original character and atmosphere. An old window on the west side has magnificent floral pilasters. On other windows are figures of Faith, Hope and Charity. There is also a group of [78] Father Time with figures of Youth and Old Age. The Ogilvy-Grant Arms are over the west door. The arms and initials of Sir Walter Ogilvy, 1st Earl of Findlater and his wife Dame Mary Douglas are easily identified. . . . Other inscriptions, mainly Biblical quotations, are carved over the door and two of the windows on the west side of the house. The extensive, well wooded policies are a source of beauty at all seasons of the year and provide excellent walks. The Castle Hill, from which there is a beautiful, almost panoramic view of the Moray Firth and the Hills of Caithness and Sutherland beyond, is a relic of the class of 'Ha 'Hills' on which Peel Castles and stockades were erected in early times. Formerly there were remains of vitrified walls on it; a rustic enclosure of quartzite has been built on the top and carved stones from Old Cullen inserted. The large, single-arched stone bridge, which stands 64 feet above the Cullen Burn on the west side of the house, was built by James, 5th Earl of Findlater whose wife, Lady Sophia Hope, sacrificed her 'pin money' to pay for it. It is an outstanding example of the work of Robert Adam, who also designed the Grand Entrance gate by which the house is approached from the east.
I must record the story of its hauntings. First, there is the story of the so-called 'Mad Earl', the 6th Earl of Findlater and 3rd of Seafield, who succeeded in 1714. He used to suffer bouts of madness, and when he felt one of these attacks coming on he used to lock himself in the library and throw the keys down to his factor, who had instructions to unlock the door when he considered the attack had passed. One day the factor was rather premature in releasing his master, who is said to have fallen on him and killed him. Soon after, when the Earl had been restored to his right mind he naturally felt terribly contrite and killed himself. The little room where this suicide is supposed to have occurred was empty except for a bluish stain on the bare boards which (I have been told) could not be removed. The Earl haunted that part of the house, pacing up and down. There must have been some truth in this, as my cousin, the late Countess, had this ghost professionally exorcised, and everyone seemed happy that the Mad Earl was at last resting at peace. Once I was lodged in a bedroom near the library. I awoke, and found I was in a cold sweat of terror and really thought my hair was standing on end. I heard what sounded like slow pacing feet outside the door. Next day I told my cousin and asked her if I could have her little dog to sleep with me. Well, the next night precisely the same feelings came over me. I found the dog was soundly asleep. Perhaps it was just imagination that caused my terror.
I simply could not walk through the darkened library. I mentioned this to one of my cousin's guests, who was a spiritualist, one day, who said he had seen a ghostly figure of a lady in white in the library. Was this just a member of the staff, going upon some night errand? Then we have the dining-room poltergeist. The walls were hung with tapestries, and Lady Seafield found that these were being flapped about by some unseen agency; she feared that they might become damaged, and had them removed. One wonders whether this poltergeist might not have been the murdered factor, to express his annoyance that Lady Seafield had had the Earl exorcised?