New Account: Aberlour

Presbytery of Aberlour, Synod of Moray
Rapporteur: The Rev. Alexander Wilson, Minister.

[Biographical Notes for the Minister adapted from the Fasti ecclesiae Scoticanae
ALEXANDER WILSON (1757-1842) son of John Wilson, Mill of Adziel, Auldearn; educated at King's College Aberdeen (MA 1777); master in Banff Academy, 1780-2; schoolmaster of Elgin, 1782-1801; licensed by the Presbytery of Elgin 4th December 1792; presented (to Aberlour) by James, Earl of Fife, 23rd July, and ordained 24th September1801; he died unmarried.]

I: TOPOGRAPHY AND NATURAL HISTORY

Name

[110] The name of this parish was originally Skirkdustan, from the word Skir, meaning, in the original Gaelic, to cut or divide, and Dustan, the name of its tutelary saint; the whole signifying Dustan's division or parish. It takes its modern name of Aberlour from its situation, the word literally signifying “the locality near the influx of a noisy burn”; which burn, discharges itself into the Spey, about the middle of the northern boundary of the parish.

Boundaries, Extent, Etc

Aberlour is situated in the western part of the county of Banff; about 34 miles from the county town; 14 miles from Keith; 14 from Elgin; and 5 from Dufftown.

The form of the parish nearly resembles a wedge. It extends 9 miles along the southern bank of the Spey, from the hill of Carron on the west, to the influx of the Fiddich on the east, forming its northern boundary. Its eastern boundary, which represents the point of the wedge, extends backwards from the junction of the Fiddich with the Spey, for about a mile of arable ground in a southeast direction; the line of boundary then rises, in a south-west direction, along the summit of the Conval hills, and gradually diverges from the Spey until, reaching the western boundary at the south western extremity, it makes the greatest breadth of the parish nearly equal to its length.

On the north, it is separated from the parishes of Knockando and Rothes by the river Spey; on the east, from Boharm, by the small river Fiddich; on the south-east, from Mortlach by the Conval hills, and the brook Dullan in the vale of Glenrinnes; and on the west, from Inveraven, by a line that passes from the rivulet Tervey over the western shoulder of Benrinnes and the hill of Carron to the river Spey.

Topographical Appearances

There is an almost complete mountain chain towards the southern part of the parish, consisting of [111] the Bluehill, east and west Conval hills, the mountain of Benrinnes, and the broad hill of Cairnakay. This chain extends in an eastern and western direction. The three first mentioned bills belong partly to this parish, and partly to Mortlach; the mountain of Benrinnes is almost wholly embraced by Aberlour; and the last mentioned hill, Cairnakay, which completes the chain, belongs entirely to the parish of Inveraven. Besides these, Aberlour contains part of the hill of Carron, which is situated on the borders of Inveraven, close to the banks of the river Spey, and separated from Benrinnes by a narrow valley.

Benrinnes is a steep and sharp-pointed mountain, as its name from the original Gaelic implies, 2747 feet above the level of the sea, and 1876 feet from its own base. Its south and east sides or acclivities, particularly the south, are very steep, thereby verifying the observation of Bergman, who, in his physical geography, maintains, that "in chains ranging from east to west, the southern acclivity is the steepest". This is the highest hill in the country, for many miles round. From the top may be seen, in a clear day, the Grampian hills to the south, the romantic valley and hills of Glenaven to the west, and to the north, as far as the mountains of Ross, Sutherland, and Caithness, It commands a prospect of the sea for many miles along the coasts of Moray and Banffshires, and forms a useful landmark on that part of the ocean, A deep and narrow gorge or pass to the east separates this mountain from the Convals. This pass, called Glackharnis, deserves particular notice, on account of its great length, its uniform breadth at the bottom, and the immense height and regularity of the slope on both its sides.

The Convals are obtuse and dome-shaped hills, of twin appearance, considerably lower than Benrinnes, and entirely covered with heath.

Running as an elbow from the western part of the Bluehill, and to the north of the Convals, lies an elevated patch of land of a hilly description, called Allachie; but the whole of this is either planted or under cultivation.

The main valley is embraced by this elevated land, the Convals and Benrinnes. The southern part of this valley, which partly consists of sloping land at the foot of the Convals, is called the Daugh or district of Edinvillie, and is separated by a brook to the north-east from the land of Allachie; and by the burn of Aberlour to the north, from the daugh of Ruthrie ; which last, situated in [112] the mouth of the valley, and becoming a little elevated to form its northern acclivity, continues at nearly the same level, till within a few hundred yards of the Spey.

To the north-west of the daugh of Ruthries and at nearly the same level, lies the Daugh of Kinnermony, a small part of which consists of haugh or holm land on the banks of the Spey, communicating with the more elevated parts, by a gentle slope.

The Daugh of Carron lies to the west of that of Kinnermony, from which it is separated by a mountain rivulet, which runs in a very deep ravine, A considerable part of this division lies lower than the former, descending gradually from the borders of Inveraven on the west, and forming a continuation of the valley between Benrinnes and the hill of Carron, already mentioned. Here, towards the Spey, there is a considerable extent of fine holm land. To the east of the Daugh of Ruthrie, and separated from it by the burn of Aberlour, lies the elevated land formerly mentioned, called the Daugh of Allachie, and to the east of this last, that of Aberlour – both descending, by an almost uniform slope of an elevation of nine or ten degrees, till within a short distance of the Spey. Close upon the Spey, Allachie contains a little holm land; and still farther back from the river, a terrace about ten feet above the former, presents a considerable surface of level land extending to the foot of the acclivity.

The Daugh of Aberlour also contains a little holm land, and is watered by two rivulets which descend from the Blue-hill and uniting form the burn called Allachoy; which burn divides Aberlour, on the east, from the daugh of Drumfurrich,

This last Daugh embraces all the eastern part of the parish situated between the burn of Allachoy and the river Fiddich, and is mostly of a level description, with the exception of a little sloping land at the foot of the Bluehill, and the rising ground of Tamanurie, near the river, which descends gradually to the southeast, and is entirely cultivated on that side, but falls precipitately to the north-west, where its rocky foot is washed by the Spey. This Daugh also contains two beautiful fields of holm land.

The remaining part of the cultivated land belonging to the parish lies in the narrow vale of Glenrinnes; between which and the main body of the parish, the pass called Glackharnis, formerly mentioned as separating Benrinnes from the western Conval, opens an almost level communication.

The district to the north of the brook Dulnan, which winds in the [113] bottom of the vale, appertains to Aberlour, and contains several good fields, partly level and partly sloping from the foot of the hills.

Climate

The climate of the parish is, on the whole, temperate; along the river, it is warm – so much so, that there is frequently little appearance of snow here, when the surrounding country is covered with it. Those parts in the neighbourhood of Benrinnes and the Convals, and especially the district of Glenrinnes, suffer more from Alpine inclemency, than any other parts of the parish.

In the commencement of winter, Benrinnes is usually covered with snow, or, as the country people say, "has on its night-cap," long- before any part of the surrounding country.

The harvests in the neighbourhood of this and the adjoining hills, and in the district of Glenrinnes, are a few weeks later than in the vicinity of the Spey, partly owing to the traces of winter continuing longer, and partly to the great quantity of rain, which, from the proximity of the hills, falls there during summer.
Although a few weeks of severe drought during summer have been supposed at the time to be injurious to the crops, yet for several years prior to 1835, and, indeed, in general, there has not been much occasion to complain of want of rain in any part of the parish.

Hydrography

Owing to the rapidity of the current, the Spey is little broader here than in Badenoch, fifty miles nearer its source, where the water flows more slowly. The fields in the immediate vicinity frequently suffer a little from overflowings of the river; and August 1829 witnessed the greatest and most destructive flood within the memory of any living inhabitant. In 1768, the water is recorded to have risen eighteen feet perpendicular above its ordinary level, but this was exceeded in 1829 by about eighteen inches. All the holm land belonging to the parish was more or less injured, along with the crops that it bore at the time – the soil of some fields being carried off to the extent of many acres bare to the channel, and others covered with sand and rough gravel to the depth of several feet. The dry stone arches which formed the eastern approach to the metal bridge of Craig Ellachie (to be noticed hereafter,) were entirely swept away, leaving only a few yards of mason work to be a precarious support to that end of the arch. A cottage, garden, and offices near the foot of the bridge were entirely carried off; and much damage was done to furniture [114] and property in other parts of the parish by the water, which stood to the height of four or five feet in some dwelling-houses.

There is a beautiful cascade called the Lynn of Ruthrie, on the Burn of Aberlour, about a mile above where it runs into the Spey. The stream, after occupying several yards of a smooth channel worn out by the water in the solid rock, is precipitated from a height of thirty feet, and, being broken in its fall about the middle of this height, by a projecting platform of the same rock, falls into a circular pool or basin below, formerly of immense depth, but now greatly filled up by the boulders and debris brought from the hills in the flood of 1829. The rock, which is of red granite, rises to a great height above the fall; and with its sylvan cover of birch and other shrubs presents, along with the fall, a very romantic and beautiful appearance.

Soil, &c

The few fields of holm land, formed by the river, consist of a rich deep loam mixed with sand. A little farther from the river, a like mould occurs on a bed of rough gravel. Towards the foot of the hills, in the east and middle parts of the parish, the soil becomes a deep clay on a bed of gravel, covered with a thin alluvial soil; and towards the foot of Benrinnes, there occurs a good, deal of moss on patches lately improved from heathy surfaces. About the centre of the parish, there is a good deal of rich alluvial soil on granite rock, and there is still more soil, of the same productive nature, on alternate beds of clay and gravel, towards the eastern and western extremities of the parish, at the same distance from the river. The soil of that part of Glenrinnes which belongs to Aberlour consists partly of loam and partly of clay, upon a pretty uniform rock of limestone, and averages from one to three feet in depth.

No lime rock is found in this parish or Inveraven, north of the mountain chain; but south of the chain, the parishes of Mortlach, Aberlour in Glenrinnes, and Glenlivat in Inveraven, are pervaded by that useful rock, which runs in a continued vein through the whole of these districts.

Mortlach supplies great part of Aberlour with lime at 2s. per boll, which answers the purposes of the farmer better here than in limestone districts, by rendering the soil very productive. The farmers in the upper part of the parish, from their near locality to Glenrinnes, prefer driving limestones from a quarry there, which they burn for themselves on their own farms. The difference of soil in the Glenrinnes district, from that near the [115] Spey, has likewise, as well as the difference of climate, formerly mentioned, a marked effect on the period and continuance of vegetation. In the latter situation, where the soil is comparatively light and sandy, vegetation is early, but the growth of grass, &c. generally begins to fail by midsummer; whereas in the more retentive soil of Glenrinnes, vegetation is but partial until the day is longest; but here the grazing continues good in autumn, when the fields on Spey side are comparatively bare.

Zoology

The migratory birds, the cuckoo, lapwing, and swallow, make their appearance here at stated seasons during spring and summer, and disappear towards autumn, sometimes a little earlier or later, according to the comparative mildness of the season. The woodcock, too, generally appears in autumn, and disappears again about the end of April. Roe deer may be found on the hill of Carron, and blackcock may be generally found there, although not very numerous. Partridges, plover, grouse, and hares abound on the hills of the parish, particularly Benrinnes, which is understood to be the nursery of game, to the moors of the surrounding country, to a great distance. There are also snipes and wild ducks to be found in the vale of Glenrinnes. White hares, ptarmigans, and eagles are sometimes seen on the top of Benrinnes. Foxes and wildcats still exist in the parish, but are becoming more rare.

There is good salmon and trout fishing in the Spey and Fiddich. Several pools in the former opposite to this parish are supposed to equal any other, for rod-fishing, in the whole course of that river. The fishing commences on the 1st of February, and closes on the 14th September; and a little after the latter period, the fish come up for spawning, and, sometime before the former, they return again to the sea. During the time of spawning, a small bird called the watercock abounds in the Spey and its tributaries, which is considered very destructive in diving and picking up the spawn. Formerly any person, who succeeded in killing one of these birds, was allowed, as a reward, the privilege of fishing in the close season; but, for a long time back, this has been lost sight of.

Plantations

There are several thriving plantations of firs on the hilly parts of the districts of Aberlour, Allachie, and Carron, with some elm and ash trees nearer the river, the banks of which are, in many parts, covered with birch of a remarkable size.

II: Civil History.

[116] This parish can boast of no remarkable antiquities.

Land-owners

It belongs to four proprietors, Lord Fife; James William Grant, Esq. of Wester Elchies; Alexander Grant, Esq. of Aberlour; and the Earl of Seafield. Lord Fife is the greatest landowner, and the Earl of Seafield the least, the latter possessing only the small property of Mudhouse. Aberlour is the only family seat in the parish.

Parochial Registers

A parochial register has been regularly kept since the year 1707, down to the present time, with the exception of some trifling blanks during the troublesome period of 1745. A registration of marriages, births, and deaths was uniformly made at the commencement of this period; but that of deaths has been discontinued for the last seventy-six years.

Modern Buildings

Near the influx of the burn of Aberlour, on the daugh of Allachie, stand the roofless walls of the old church; and about 300 yards farther to the east, on the same plain, is situated the new church, a handsome and commodious building, erected in 1812.

About the same period, Charles Grant, Esq. of Wester Elchies, commenced the building of a village on this plain, embracing all the holm land of the district to the extent of half a mile in length, and erected it into a borough of barony, under the name of Charlestown of Aberlour. This village now contains 250 inhabitants, and has four markets in the course of the year, held respectively on the first Thursday of April, Thursday before the 21st of May, second Thursday of July, and second Thursday of November.

III: Population.

The population of this parish was:
Yearly average of marriages for the last seven years: 8
Average number of persons under 20 years of age: 614

Several individuals are in the enjoyment of good health at the age of 80 and 85, and two or three have attained the advanced age of 90.

Character and Habits of the People

The English language is universally spoken in the parish, and a very few families and servants, originally from Highland districts, are capable of using the Gaelic language. The people are decidedly sober, and [117] industrious in their habits, neat and cleanly in their persons, and temperate in their diet, which, although animal food is occasionally used in the poorest families, principally consists, among the labouring classes, of milk and vegetable fare of their own produce. They are in general contented and comfortable in their circumstances. Nor are they behind their neighbours, in point of shrewdness and intelligence. They are, in general, very well informed according to their station in life, and the tone of their minds may certainly be considered as moral and religious. A considerable change for the better in these respects is understood to have taken place since the suppression of smuggling – a case of which is now scarcely ever heard of within the bounds of the parish.

IV: Industry

The cultivated parts of the parish, which may be about one-half of its whole extent, and a great proportion of which has been improved within the last twelve years, are divided into farms, of from £10 to £100 of yearly rent, generally under leases of nineteen years' duration. Some of the farms are inclosed by good stone fences, and the farm-buildings are in general substantial and commodious.

Rent of Land

The average rent per acre may be reckoned at £1:5s, inclusive of permanent pasture susceptible of cultivation, the extent of which may be again estimated at about one twentieth part of what is under the plough. Some moors, too, in the centre of the parish may be under cultivation in the course of years. The soil, with due culture, is in general capable of raising all sorts of grain, barley, oats, wheat, pease, &c; and it is remarked, that the average weight of barley here is from a pound and a half to two pounds more per bushel than in the heavier soils of the neighbouring parishes Mortlach and Glass.

All the farmers raise black-cattle of the Morayshire breed, and. those near the hills keep a flock of sheep of the hardy black-faced kind; but, on the whole, grain is the staple commodity the former has to depend on.

Prices

Within the last two years, the price of oats has varied from 16s to £1:2s per quarter; barley from £1:1s to £1:4s

Rate of Wages

The rate of wages to farm servants may be stated as follows: for a first or principal man, £6 per half year; a ploughman, £4:10s; and maid-servants from £1:10s to £2, all inclusive of lodging and maintenance. Tradesmen's wages are moderate, mason and carpenters' work being furnished by [118]estimate – which system is understood to have lowered the expense to less than one-half, within the last twelve years.

V: Parochial Economy.

Means of Communication

The parish has enjoyed the advantage of a sub-post-office to Mortlach, ever since the year 1803; and in addition to this, a first-office was established, some years ago, at Craig Ellachie, which now communicates daily with a principal office at Ballindalloch through Aberlour, and also with the two sub-offices of Dufftown and Rothes. The means of communication have been greatly improved by a toll road, which was made in 1817 and runs through the whole extent of the parish, from the bridge of Fiddich to the hill of Carron on the borders of Inveraven. Another very useful road was made last season, in the south, or Glenrinnes part of the parish, running through that vale from Dufftown in Mortlach to Glenlivat and Tomintoul.

Ecclesiastical State

It has been formerly stated, that a new parish church was erected in the year 1812. This contains 700 sittings, all free. It is, at present, in good repair, and is conveniently situate for the attendance of the greater part of the parish – being, with the exception of Glenrinnes, not more than three miles and a-half distant from its farthest extremity in an east and south direction, and little more than four from the farthest habitation on the west, or Inveraven side.

The whole population belong to the Established Church, with the exception of a few Seceders and Independents, who likewise attend divine service occasionally in the church.

The manse is a very old building. It was, many years ago, pronounced, by decreet of presbytery, to be insufficient; and having sustained considerable damage by the flood in 1829, which reduced it to an entirely ruinous condition, the incumbent was allowed, in lieu of a new manse, an annuity for seven years from that date.

A great part of the glebe land was carried off bare to the channel, and in order to protect the remaining part, and preserve its former boundaries, two bulwarks were erected by the heritors at a great expense in 1830; one on the Spey, about 500 yards above the glebe land, and the other on the burn of Aberlour, where it forms the boundary of the glebe, and near its junction with the Spey. Although that part of the field that was injured is entirely useless in the meantime, yet, it is hoped that the stagnant water received periodically in the excavated parts behind the bulwarks. [119] from the repeated risings of the Spey, will, by leaving successive layers of alluvial deposit, produce a tolerable soil in the course of time.

The stipend is 14½ chalders of grain, one-half barley, and one-half oatmeal, with £8:6s:8d for communion elements. There is a missionary establishment in the valley of Glenrinnes, for the accommodation of that remote part which belongs to Aberlour, as well as the remainder of the vale appertaining to Mortlach. There is a neat and commodious chapel at this station, and the minister, who is an ordained clergyman of the Church of Scotland, receives £60 per annum from the Royal Bounty, and is provided by the heritors with a manse, glebe, and some other little accommodations. He performs every parochial duty in his district, with the exception of administering the sacrament. There are about 460 communicants yearly at the church, inclusive of this district. Divine service is usually very well attended, both at the church and the missionary station of Glenrinnes.

Education

There is one parochial school and a female school in Charlestown for the accommodation of the main part of the parish – the district of Glenrinnes being supplied by an Assembly school in that place. The branches of education taught in the parish school are, Latin, geography, arithmetic and elementary mathematics, writing, English grammar, and English reading, with the principles of Christian knowledge.

At the female school, sewing, knitting, and English reading are taught; and English reading, arithmetic and writing, being the branches most required in the country, are taught in the Assembly school of Glenrinnes.

The salary of the parish schoolmaster is the maximum, £34:4s:4½d. and the school fees average from £10 to £15 per annum. The schoolmistress has a free house, a garden, and a small croft of land, from the proprietor, Mr Grant of Elchies, which, along with the school fees and the proceeds of her own industry in dress-making, form her only dependence.

The parochial schoolmaster has the legal accommodations, but, in common with most of his brethren, finding these insufficient, he has lately built a small addition to his dwelling-house at his own expense, in the hopes, that, when farther accommodation shall have been granted to the schoolmasters in general, he may be reimbursed for his outlay. The school fees are very moderate, and [120] the people in general appear sensible of the benefits of education, the poorest of the parish contriving to keep their children some time, more or less, at school – in which and similar cases, education is given gratis.

Poor and Parochial Funds

The average number of the poor upon the roll may be stated at 30, who receive pecuniary assistance now and then, according to their respective necessities, and as far as the funds will admit. The weekly collections at the church here average about 7s. and at the chapel of Glenrinnes about 2s., one-third of which last falls to Aberlour, and, in consequence, the poor of Glenrinnes have an equal claim with the rest of the parish upon the session funds. Besides the weekly collections, the poor derive assistance from a mortification of 3½ bolls of meal, payable yearly, off a small farm belonging to the Earl of Fife. The sums thus realized from time to time, along with the interest on two bequeathments of 100 merks each, as also that arising from small sums occasionally put to interest in times of plenty, and penalties for immoralities, form a supply scarcely adequate to meet the wants of the poor, even without taking into account the burden of two pauper lunatics, who, though mainly supported by the heritors, have, for many years, been receiving aid from the funds.

Application is seldom made for relief, without necessity on the part of the applicant; but, on the other hand, it frequently happens that unobtrusive individuals of delicate feelings are disposed to suffer considerable destitution, before making their case known; but the members of session endeavour, as far as in their power, to find out such cases, and give assistance in a manner the least offensive.

Distillery

In concluding this account of parochial economy, it may be stated, that there is one whisky distillery, on a large scale, in the parish, situated at Aberlour, which is considered an accommodation to the surrounding farmers, in affording a ready and convenient market for their barley. There are two or three houses of entertainment in the parish, for which spirit licenses are annually granted, besides two principal inns, namely, the New Inn, situated in Charlestown, and the Cottage Inn, only separated from the village by the burn of Aberlour.

Fuel

In the southern and western parts of the parish, there is a good and convenient supply of peat for fuel, but the village and parts to the eastward are farther removed from the moss. In [121] the village, a load of peats costs from 1s 6d. to 2s.3d. according to the quality.

Miscellaneous Observations

On comparing the present state of the parish with that exhibited at the termination of the last century, it appears, that a great addition has been made to its cultivated parts, as well as a great improvement in the method of culture adopted. These, in addition to the erection of the village of Charlestown, and the increased facility of communication by means of the toll-road formerly mentioned, form the most striking variations between the state of the parish at that time and its present state.

The bridge of Craig Ellachie over the Spey, near the eastern extremity of the parish, likewise adds most materially to the accommodation of the whole country south of that river, by opening up a communication to the Elgin markets, and to Garmouth, the chief grain market for this quarter; from which last place too, this part of the country is most conveniently supplied with coals. This bridge was erected in the year 1815, at an expense of £8000, raised partly by subscription, and partly by voluntary assessment, along with £4000 from Government; and in consequence there never was any pontage exacted. It consists of a single metal arch upwards of 160 feet in span, resting, on the north or Knockando side, on a solid rock, which gives name to the bridge, and on a strong pillar of mason work built on piles, on the east or Aberlour side.

In the Knockando approach, the road was cut in the solid rock to the height of 70 feet in the immediate vicinity of the bridge, and upwards of 100 yards in length. Besides its advantage to the country, which is universally acknowledged to be very great, the appearance of the bridge, along with the majestic perpendicular rock frowning over its western approach, is very grand and imposing—adding greatly to the effect of the surrounding beautiful and picturesque scenery.—It is frequently visited by strangers as an object of curiosity.

With respect to the improvements, of which the parish may be still considered susceptible, the chief regards the communication between its main body and the district of Glenrinnes. A road on this line would be highly beneficial to every part of the parish, by increasing the facility of driving limestone from Glenrinnes, and peat fuel from the foot of Benrinnes, to the district of Edinvillie, and those parts in the vicinity of the Spey, and also by affording [122] the farmers of Glenrinnes a more direct communication to a. market for their grain. The present substitute for a road is a rough cart track, running through the district of Edinvillie and Glackharnis, almost impassable, especially after the severe winter floods; but such is the necessity of having a road on this line, that much expense has been already laid out upon it, by temporary repairs yearly, partly by allocation of small sums from the road funds, and partly by private subscription.

It is in contemplation, however, to make a road near the present track, to communicate with the Aberlour toll-road, a little to the west of the manse at one of its extremities, and to join, at its other extremity, the road that has lately been made in Glenrinnes; as also another branch to run from Edinvillie towards the Carron district, with the view of accommodating the western parts of the parish. This road is anticipated with pleasure as a very great improvement.

The farmers of this parish are spirited according to their means, and some have employed a large capital to good account.

The system of husbandry adopted is much the same as that pursued in other agricultural districts. Some years ago, the Highland Society gave premiums for the curing of butter, to a district embracing this and five other neighbouring parishes, and the first and second of four prizes were adjudged to Aberlour. The patriotic and praiseworthy exertions of this national society, in the distribution of prizes for improvements in husbandry, certainly appear to be attended with those beneficial effects at which they aim: and it is to be hoped, that another competition, lately announced for this quarter, will be met by the good people with that emulation which the society has already, in a great measure, inspired.

July 1836.