Volume VIII, Number XII.
(Constitute of Moray and Inverness , Presbytery of Abernethy, Synod of Moray.)
Rapporteur: the Rev. Mr. Lewis Grant.
[Biographical Notes for the Minister adapted
from the Fasti ecclesiae Scoticanae
LEWIS GRANT (1735-1798), son of George Grant, minister of Kirkmichael; educated
at Marischal College, Aberdeen (MA 1753); licensed by Presbytery of Forres 17th
July 1759; ordained to Duthil 20th September that year; translated and admitted
14th July 1778. A man of great kindness and hospitality.
He married, 15th Sept. 1764, Robina Clerk (who died in 1826, aged 80) and had
issue —
George;
Jean Duff, born 1766 (married Grigor Grant, minister of this parish);
Anne (married 4th December 1797, Robert Grant of Kincorth);
Alexandrina (married James Grant, minister of Urquhart and Glenmoriston);
Robina (married 6th June 1807, John Muterer, merchant, Forres).]
Origin of the Name.
[251] CROMDALE is derived from the Gaelic language, Crom signifying crooked, and dale a meadow; which is literally explained by the river Spey, making a semi-circle, or half moon, in the place where the manse and church are built. Cromdale has been rendered pretty famous all over Scotland, by the long composed in consequence of a battle fought there, in the year 1690, betwixt the adherents of King William, commanded by Colonel Livingston, and the supporters of the house of Stuart, headed by Clavers, commonly called Lord Viscount Dundee; and wherein King William’s party prevailed, killing and taking prisoners great numbers of the enemy. This action is said to have put a stop to any farther bloodshed on that score.Extent, Soil and Surface
[252] The extent of it is very considerable, being fully 13 Scotch miles in length, and generally 3 or 4 miles broad, in the old inhabited country; but on account of the late improvements, which are very numerous, the breadth, in some parts, is no less than from 6 to 7 miles. The soil is generally dry and thin, with the exception of some flats or low haughs, close by the river Spey, which, in point of natural fertility, are equal to those near the sea side, which is 20 miles distant from every part of this parish. An hundredth part of the lands of Cromdale is not arable, or even green, so as to render it fit for pasture to black cattle or horses. The hills and level grounds are generally covered with black heath, having scarce any mixture of grass connected with it. Though these circumstance quickly discover themselves to the stranger and traveller, from the unpleasant aspect the country at first sight exhibits, yet these prejudices are soon removed, when a person adverts to the utility and consequence of places, formerly, in a great measure , thought barren and useless, now rendered productive of the greatest source of national wealth, by the flocks of sheep, which every where cover the face of the country ; and which are now triple the number they were a few years ago, as well as proportionally increased in point of value. The plantations of fir, which are numerous, and are thriving fast, will soon have a good effect in setting off the country to very great advantage.Situation, Climate and Diseases
The parish lies within the counties of Inverness and Moray, in almost an equal proportion, some parts of it, lying next to Inverness, being of the shire of Moray, and some of those lands, nearest to Forres and Elgin, belonging to the county of Inverness. This seeming confusion must have originated from the interest the different [253] proprietors (who held the lands of this country when shires were first formed) had in the principal towns fixed upon as head burghs.Cromdale is generally allowed to be extremely wholesome. Few epidemical diseases happen it. There are many instances of longevity a far as 90, and there are not a few, even beyond that age. Dr. Buchan, author of the Family Physician, had occasion to be in this part of the country some years ago, when he very judiciously remarked, that every man’s house was built upon a rock, meaning, that every man had a dry gravellish stance whereon to found his house; which, the Doctor observed, is more conducive to health, than all the benefits that result from medicine. Inoculation universally takes place with great success. All prejudices on the score of predestination, are now happily removed.
River and Fish
The river Spey is the only one which runs through this parish. From its rapidity every where, it is allowed, that more water flows from it, than any other river in the kingdom, It is distinguished for vast floats of wood, which cover its banks, and are daily carried down by its waters to the sea. Sir James Grant’s woods of Abernethy and Duthel, with those of Rothiemurchus, lie contiguous to the Spey, and cover a boundless tract of country. The Spey was once famous for salmon, all over the extent of country, through which it passes; but, by a late decision of the house of Peers, an exclusive right was given to the Duke of Gordon, by means of Cruives, and all other human devices, to monopolize this article at the source of the river; which of late years has been effected with such success, that few salmon are to be got a short way up the country; and yet the gentlemen of property, hurt by this decision, allow the wood belonging [254] to this family, which often proves injurious to their arable ground, to pass without the least molestation.Animals
The white hare is frequently got in this parish during winter. It is as white as snow, and the ears are tipt with black. Roes, black cocks, and heath hens are very numerous. Horses used for work, were, some years ago, generally bred in the country; but now, owing to the flocks of sheep, which consume the growth of the common pasture, they are generally purchased, and at a very advanced price. Farmers, on this account, have reduced their number, using only two in place of four, carrying on a deal of their labour with oxen, which they employ in the draught as well as in the plough. Black cattle are very numerous: they amount to 4000 or 5000 within the parish, while sheep may be reckoned from 10,000 to 12,000. Goats were once numerous, but now the parish could scarcely muster 200 of them. The wool of our sheep is depreciated on account of the mixture of black hairs, which is ascribed to the attempts to improve the breed in point of size. The quality of it far exceeds that of Badenoch wool, which is ascribed to the sheep being fed upon pure heath; and the connoisseurs in mutton attribute an uncommon fine flavour to sheep fed in this manner.Rent and Proprietors
The real rent of the parish, of which Sir James Grant of Grant is the sole proprietor and patron, is considerably beyond £2000 a-year. CASTLE GRANT, the seat of his family, is within its bounds. His men of business affirm, that they are in possession of writings, which ascertain their residence there for upwards of 500 years, without any failure in the male line all that time; and though they have had the property of the whole parish, for about 200 years; yet prior to this, it was divided among different heritors. [255] The price of the acre of arable land, when feued, is generally, form £8 to £12 Sterling, without reckoning any thing for grass or common pasturage.Cultivation and Produce
The union of farms is frequent. One man now occupies as much land, as was, 40 years ago, possessed by 5 or 6 families. The principal crops consist of oats, barley and rye. The last has, of late years, been in no high estimation, from the effect it has in scourging the ground. Wheat is grown here occasionally in small quantities. Turnips and potatoes succeed to a wish. Potatoes, in a short time, will constitute the one half of people’s food. Sown grass is every where to be met with, and very luxuriant crops arise from it.The lime quarries are opened by the proprietor. The country abounds with them. The boll of lime, which measures 24 Scotch pints each firlot, is sold at 8d. per boll. It is necessary to make this distinction, as the Banffshire boll is less by a third. A lint mill is erected by the proprietor, and most people sow flax with success. A bleachfield is just established, which bids fair to be of great advantage to the country.
Population
There is not a single sectary of any denomination in the parish; the whole people being of the established church. The number of souls belonging to the parish, may be stated at 3000, but many of them go occasionally south, during the summer season, to work at roads, and other public works, which renders the amount fluctuating. The return to Dr. Webster, in 1755, was 3063 souls.The births, at an average, for the years 1735, 1736 and 1737, were 80 each year: for the 3 last years, they did not exceed 60.
The marriages are from 10 to 12 in the year.
The deaths, [256] from the circumstances, that there are 3 different churchyards in the parish, can by no means be ascertained.
Church, School and Poor
The living betwixt stipend and element money is £75 Sterling. There is no victual rent. There are two glebes in the parish, which might be let, as the value of both, at £7 Sterling a-year. The manse was built 70 years ago, and has been different times repaired since. The offices were lately rebuilt, and are in good order. The church is plaistered, being finished off with great taste.The number of begging poor exceeds 20, but these go seldom from the bounds of this county. Some times 30, or even 40, receive a part of the public funds. Many of these are reduced householders, who would rather starve rather than beg. When any person is reduced by accident, or some severe distemper, to poverty, the method practised for their relief, is by a general collection; and in justice to the people, it must be said, that their liberality, on all such occasions, far exceeds what might be expected. There are no other funds besides the public collections, which, at an average amount from £10 to £15 Sterling a-year. Much depends on the price of cattle, and the sale of victual, which is more or less according to the season. When the family of Grant reside at Castle Grant, which, for some time past, has been pretty much the same, the collection has thereby been much enlarged, as they constantly attend public worship, in all seasons of the year. Their beneficence makes every one delicate in giving them trouble, as every object of distress, within their reach, experiences their charity.
Language
The common people speak the Gaelic tongue, but the English is the prevailing language, which they pronounce with great propriety, and with very little of the brogue. [257] In all the parishes southward from this, the English alone is spoken; but here, both languages are preached daily. In a few years hence, the English will be the only language, as the people ardently wish their children to read the scriptures; and for this purpose, often, in the winter, 4 or 5 schools are employed at once in the parish at their own expense.School
The parochial school is taught at Cromdale. The salary is 200 merks, paid by the heritors. The emoluments of the schoolmaster, as session-clerk, with dues of baptisms, &c. amount to £3 or £4 Sterling, besides school fees.Village
Grantown is a village erected under the influence by the Grant family, it being little more than 20 years, since the place, where it stands, was a poor rugged piece of heath. It now contains 300 to 400 inhabitants, some of whom are as good tradesmen as any in the kingdom. Shoemakers, taylors, weavers of wool, linen, and stockings, blacksmiths, wrights, masons, and 12 merchants keep regular shops in it.There are 2 established schools. One of the teachers has £30 Sterling of salary, exclusive of the emoluments arising from his office; £10 of which he has by way of gratuity from Sir James Grant; £10 as the interest of mortified money, from the presbytery of the bounds; and £10 from the Society for propagating Christian Knowledge; with an excellent dwelling house at Sir James Grant’s expense. The boys are taught reading, writing, accounts, Latin, and French. They amount to from 50 to 80, and they excel in reading the English language grammatically. There is another school established in the town, which is taught by a woman. Young children to the number of 30 to 40 constantly attend, and are not only initiated, by her in the first principles of letters, but the [258] young girls receive, under her, a foundation in the various branches of female education.
A brewery was established in the place immediately at the first building of it, on purpose to keep people from drinking spiritous liquors, and it continues to give satisfaction. Two bakers carry on the business of their profession with success. Butcher meat, beef, mutton, pork, &c. generally fell at from 2 ½d. to 3d. per pound, fowls at 6d. and 7d each, butter at 10s. and 12s. the stone and cheese according to its quality. There are two or three public houses in it, with an elegant town-house, covering a prison, agreeable to the jurisdiction act, under the sanction of the sheriff of the bounds. Though it has been built for some years, yet few have been confined within its walls, which is a high proof of the good behaviour of the people.
Grantown is, on all hands, surrounded with most excellent mosses, affording peats of the best quality; the ashes of which, when mixed with lime, make good manure for potatoes, greens and cabbages. All kinds of roots are to be met with here, in vast quantities and to as great perfection, as in any part of the kingdom; which, from its former barren state, is an incontestible proof, how far the country at large is capable of improvement.
Roads, Wages, Fuel &c.
The statute work goes on very punctually, without the smallest murmur. Stone bridges are erected over almost every rivulet, either by the proprietor or the county; and of course the roads are in the highest order.The wages of servants have increased, of late years, at a most amazing rate. Six pounds Sterling are commonly given to capable men servants in the year, exclusive of maintenance. Women have generally 40s Sterling of wages in the year. Cotters, or married servants, are seldom employed as the bulk of the [259] people manage their farms with the help of their children. The high wages of men servants we attribute to the floating of wood, which finds business for all our men, from 16 to 60 years of age, who, during the warm season, receive from 1s. to 1s.2d. for each days labour. Fuel is every where to be had, on easy terms, and of the best quality, through the whole of this country.