Old Account: Kirkmichael

Volume XII, Number XXXII. (COUNTY OF BANFF)
(SYNOD OF MORAY, PRESBYTERY OF ABERNETHY.)
By the Rev. Mr John Grant

[Biographical Notes for the Minister adapted from the Fasti ecclesiae Scoticanae
JOHN GRANT (1742 – 1819) licensed by Presbytery of Abernethy and ordained 4th January 1774; admitted to Arrochar 26th June 1776; translated to Kirkmichael 10th March 1780; presented (to Duthil) by Sir James Grant of Grant in June, translated and admitted 27th September 1809.
He married, 4th October 1780, Clementina Cruickshank (who died in 1841) and had issue — Georgiana. ]

Name, Extent, Surface, Etc

[425] In Monkish history, this parish derives its ecclesiastic name from St. Michael, to whom the chapel, where now the kirk stands, was anciently dedicated. If this account be true, it may be observed, that the tutelary patron, ever since the period of his election, has paid little regard to the morality of his clients. In the Gaelic, the vernacular idiom; it is called Strath-àth-fhin, from “Strath,” a dale, “àth,” a ford, and “Fin,” the hero Fingal, so highly celebrated in the Poems of Ossian. It is generally written Strath-avan, avan being the appellative for a river; but the former etymon approaches much nearer to the provincial pronunciation. [426] It is further confirmed by a stanza, which is still recited by the old people of the country.

Chaidh mo bheans bhatha;
Ain uisg àth-fhin, nan clachan sleamhuin;
’S bho chaidh mo bheans’ bhatha;
Bheirmeid àth-fhin, ainm a amhuin.

“On the limpid water of the slippery stones, has my wife been drowned, and since my wife has there been drowned, henceforth its name shall be the water of Fingal.”

It is the tradition of the country, that in one of Fingal’s excursions, in pursuit of the deer of the mountains, after having crossed the river, he was followed by his wife, who being carried down by the violence of the stream, sunk, and was drowned. To commemorate this melancholy event, in which the hero was tenderly interested, he uttered the above stanza. Since that period, the water, which was formerly called An-usge-geal, or the White Water, in allusion to its transparency, assumed by an early transition, the name of the ford or river of Fingal.

The parish of Kirkmichael It is presumable, from its desolated situation, the natural barriers by which it is separated from the circumjacent countries, the detached hills, and numerous streams, by which it is intersected, that the parish of Kirkmichael has not been inhabited till of a late period. Several old people, now alive, remember the first culture of space of ground within its precincts, that may contain at present, a tenth part of the whole population. To this circumstance, and the coldness of the climate, it has been owing, that the possession of the property has undergone so few changes. The first proprietor, as far as can be traced back by the light of authentic records, seems to have been Macduff, Thane of Fife. In a charter, where he makes a gift of the contiguous parish of Inveraven, it is said, “Malcomus de Fife, salutem. Sciant presentes me dedisse, as hac carta cosfirmasse, Deo et Episcopo Moraviense, ecclesiam beati Peteri de Inveraven, [427] quam Bricius tenuit, et cum omni parochia totius Strathaven, cum decimis et oblationibus, in perpetusm Eleenmosynam.” This gift was made in the 13th century; and, upon the decline of the ancient family of Macduff, the property was transferred to Alexander Stewart, Earl of Buchan, of the Royal Family. In 1482, Sir Walter Stewart, grandson of the Earl of Buchan, in the illegitimate line, resigned it to King James the III. By King James the III, it was given to the Earl of Huntly. In 1492, this gift is confirmed by King James, IV, in favour of Alexander, Lord Gordon, Master of Huntly. This noble family have continued the proprietors of the parish of Kirkmichael ever since. So that during a period of near 500 years, the observation of a Greek poet, justified by general experience, upon the fluctuations of property, can scarcely be applied to this district.[Greek text not easily decipherable. Ed]is divided into 10 little districts [427] called Davochs.

One of these belongs to that respectable character, Sir James Grant ; the other 9 are the property of his Grace the Duke of Gordon, a nobleman not more distinguished by his great and opulent fortune, than for the antiquity of his family, his splendid hospitality, his patriotism and humanity. What the poet Buchanan applied to one of his ancestors, may, with equal propriety, substituting the past for the present, be applied to his Grace :
Dives opum, iuxuque carens, domus hospita cunctis,
Pacis amans pectus, tortis ad arma manus.
It is observed by an eminent historian, that Charles V was not more conspicuous for his own good sense, than for that proof which he exhibited of it, in the choice of his ministry. This observation will apply to his Grace, in its full latitude; as the gentlemen to whom his Grace has intrusted the management of his business, have acquired an esteem, to which candour, integrity, and affability have justly entitled them. In this character Mr Tod is too well known to require the feeble panegyric of the writer of this Statistical Account.

Several antiquaries have mistaken the etymon of Davoch; but the word is evidently derived from Daimh, oxen, and Ach, field. In its original acceptation, it imports as much land as can be ploughed by 8 oxen. In the Regiam Majestatem, it is clearly defined. “Davata,” says that writer, “apud priscos Scotos, quod continet quatuor aratra terrae, quorum unumquodque trahitur octo bobus. Alii quatuor aratia duplica [428]intelligunt, quae sunt octo simplicia; sed servari debet usus, et consuetudo locorum. In nonnullis libris hoc legitur bavata terrae contra fidem veterum codicum anthenticorum. Bavata autem terrae continet tredecem acrae, cujus octava pars comprehendit unam acram, dimidium acrae et octavam partem acrae.” This passage shows, that in ancient times, in the Highlands, a small portion of land was cultivated, in comparison of the present. A davoch of the ordinary extent of these districts, would now require, at least, three times as many cattle to labour it, as were formerly employed according to the above passage from the Regiam Majestatem. Hence, it may be inferred, that the population has increased in proportion.

[428] This parish lies at the western extremity of the county of Banff, from which it is distant between 30 and 40 computed miles. On every side, there are natural barriers which separate it from the surrounding countries; from the parish of Strathdon; towards the S., by Leach’-mhic-ghothin, the declivity of the smith’s son, from the parish of Cromdale toward the N. by Beinn Chromdal, the hill of the winding dale. There are two long branches of hill, that, running in an easterly direction, project from the northern trunk of the Grampian mountains. Grampian, from Grànt and Beinn. Grànt, like the [illegible] of the Greeks, has two opposite meanings. In some fragments ascribed to Ossian, it signifies beautiful. This meaning, now, is obsolete, and it signifies deformed, ugly, etc. The old Caledonians, as these mountains abounded in game, and connecting beauty with utility, might have given the name in the former sense. Mr. Henry Saville, and Mr Lloyd, two eminent antiquaries, call them Grànt Beinn, from which comes the soft inflected Grampian of the Romans.

From the parish of Abernethy toward the W. it is separated by moors and hills that connect Cromdale hill with Glenavon; from the parish of Inveravan, by moors, and hill, and narrow defiles. The length between the extreme points that are habitable, may be about 10 computed miles. The breadth is unequal. Where it tapers at the extremities, in some places, it is less than a mile; between the verges that bound the middle, it may be about [429] about 3 computed miles. In its shape, it resembles an irregular oblong oval.

Cairngorm, or the Blue Mountain, one of the high though perhaps not the highest of those lofty mountains that stud the Grampian desert, rises 4050 feet above the level of the sea; and Loch-avon not more than a mile from the foot of the Cairngorm, 1750 feet. For the height of this mountain and Lochavon, the writer is obliged to James Hay, Esq of Gordon Castle, a gentleman of much knowledge, whose skill in observing, and whose accuracy in describing natural appearances, are well known to the Linnaean Society in London.

At the southern extremity of the parish, there is cataract falling from a height of 18 feet. From this cataract to Lochavon, the source of the river, there are 8 computed miles; between the manse of Kirkmichael, which lies within 2 miles of the northern extremity of the parish, and the above cataract, there are 7 computed miles. As the source of the river there, is situated so near the cultivated part of the country, it may be inferred, that the situation of the whole ground is very considerably elevated above the surface of the sea.

Close by Lochavon, there is a large stone called Clach dhian, from clach, a stone, and dhian, protection, or refuge. It has been a cavity within, capable of containing 13 armed men, according to the figure made use of in describing it. One corner of it rises 6 feet 4 inches in height. The breadth of it may be about 12 feet. Plain, within, it rises on the outside from the several verges of the roof, into a kind of irregular protuberance of an oblong form. In times of licence and depredation, it afforded a retreat to freebooters.

Clach-bhan, from clach, a stone, and bean, a woman, is another stone situated upon the summit of a hill, called Meal-a-ghaneimh, from meal, a knoll or mound, and ganeimh, land. On one side, it measures 20 feet in height. On the other side, it is lower and of a sloping form. In the face of it, 2 seats have been excavated, resembling that of an armed chair. Till of late, this stone used to be visited by pregnant women, not only of this, but from distant countries, impressed by the superstitious idea, that by sitting in these seats, the pains of travail would become easy to them, and other obstetrical assistance rendered unnecessary.

The face of the [430] country in general, exhibits a bleak and gloomy appearance. In crossing the centre of it, few cheering objects attract the eye of the traveller. From detached hills covered with heath, and destitute of verdure, where here and there a lonely tree marks the depredations of time, he naturally turns with aversion. But, should he happen to pass after a heavy fall of rain when the numerous brooks that intersect the country pour their troubled streams into the roaring Avon, he must commiserate the condition of the inhabitants, at such a season, precluded from the rest of the world, and even from enjoying the society of each other.

Frequently in winter, the snow lies so deep, that the communication between it and other countries, becomes almost impracticable. The banks of the Avon, however, are pleasant enough, and in different places tufted with groves of birch, mixed with some alder. This being the largest stream that waters the country, from its source to where it falls into the Spey (the Tuessis Tueffs, from Tuath, north, and uisg, water, by way of eminence, being the largest river in the N. of Scotland, it was afterward called Spey, from Spadha, a long stride, in allusion to the length of its course. of Antoninus’s Itinerary), it flows over a space of 24 or 25 miles, including its windings. In the parish, there are 2 other lesser streams, besides a variety of brooks; the one called Conlas, from Cuthin, narrow, and glas, green, and the other, ailnae, from eil, a rock, and nidh, to wash.

Climate

From its elevated situation, the numerous brooks by which it is intersected, and its vicinity to the Grampian mountains, it might naturally be expected, that the atmosphere of this country has little to recommend it. Of this, the inhabitants have sufficient experience, while their summers are seldom warm and [431] and genial.

The disorders consequently to which they are subject, may, in a great measure, be attributed to their climate. These, for the most part, are coughs, consumptions, and affections of the lungs, by which many of those advanced in life are cut off, and frequently severals of those who die at an earlier period. In summer and autumn, what the Medical Faculty call nervous fevers, chiefly prevail, and frequently prove fatal. These are the common disorders.

Soil, Springs, Natural History, Etc

As the face of this country rises into hills, or sinks into valleys, as it slopes into declivities, or extends into plains, the soil accordingly varies. Along the banks of the Avon, and the brooks, it generally consists of a mixture of sand, and black earth; in the more elevated plains, of a pretty fertile black mould; on the sloping declivities, of a kind of reddish earth and gravel; the nearer it approaches the summits of the hills, it is mixed with moss and gravel. In some few places, it is deep and clayey.

In the parish, there are several springs of mineral waters: One in particular is much frequented by people troubled with the stone, or labouring under stomachic complaints. Some medical gentlemen, who have made the experiment, assert that it is superior to the celebrated wells of Pananich on Deeside.

It has been observed, that the hills of this country are covered with heath, and destitute of wood; yet, in the interstices of heath there grows rank grass, and a plant called Canach an Shleibh, or the mountain down, on which cattle and sheep feed in summer, and grow tolerably fat. The forest of Glenavon which is 11 miles in length, and between 3 and 4 in breadth, contains many green spots, and during 4 months of the summer and autumn seasons, affords pasture for a 1000 head of cattle. This forest is the property of his Grace the Duke of Gordon. Further, toward the [432] the S., and forming a division of the forest of Glenavon, lies Glenbuilg, also the property of the Duke of Gordon. Glenbuilg will be about 5 miles in length, and between 2 and 3 in breadth. If no part of it were laid under sheep, it might afford pasturage for 500 or 600 head of cattle.

The long and narrow defile that bounds the southern extremity of the parish, and contiguous to the Avon, exhibits a beautiful and picturesque appearance. It is everywhere covered with grass, the ever-green juniper, and the fragrant birch. From the beginning of April, till the middle of November, sheep and goats, in numerous flocks, are constantly seen feeding on its pendent sides. In many of the Grampian mountains are found precious stones of a variety of colours. But whatever may be their specific difference, they are all denominated by the well known name of Cairn-gorm stones, that being the mountain in which they have been found in the greatest abundance. Some of them are beautifully polished by the hand of nature, while others are rude and shapeless. They are ranked by naturalists in the class of topazes.

Limestone is so plenty, that there is scarcely a farm in the whole parish above a mile and a half’s distance from a quarry of it. Freestone is also found, but of a soft and friable quality. A slate quarry has been opened many years ago, and occasionally wrought: the stone is of a greyish colour. It is hard and durable, and supplies the neighbouring countries in that article, particularly Strathspey. So little tenacious is his Grace the Duke of Gordon of his right of property, that he allows every person to use these quarries at pleasure, free from all restraint. Two marl pits have been discovered, but lying on the distant skirts of the parish. Farmers have not availed themselves of the marl as a manure; there are few however, who use not lime for this purpose. In the year 1736, an iron mine was opened in the hill Leach-mhic-gothin, which separates this parish from Strathdon by a branch of the York-Building Company, then residing in Strathspey. It was continued to be wrought till 1739, when, by a derangement in their affairs, they left that country. Since that period it has been totally abandoned. This mine also, is the property of the Duke of Gordon.

Population, Etc

[433] According to Dr. Webster’s report, the population in 1755, was 1288. No sessional records are now in existence belonging to this parish, previous to the 1725, when the incumbent before the last was admitted. Ever since, it has not been possible to keep them with accuracy. Dissenters, of whatever denomination, watch the opportunity of encroaching upon the prerogative of the Established Church. As the third, then, of the people of this parish are Roman Catholics, the priest generally takes the liberty of sharing in the functions that belong to the Protestant Clergymen. From this circumstance, it must happen, that there will be several marriages and baptisms unknown to the session, and consequently cannot have place in its records. Hitherto, the present incumbent has not checked this encroachment, from his aversion to every kind of illiberal intolerance; but, on the contrary, allowed the Roman Catholic priest to use every liberty, as if toleration had extended to this country. He allows him to marry and baptize, impose penalties, and exact them among his own people, in the same manner as if he were of the Established Church. The writer of this statistical article mentions this circumstance, as he thinks it ought to be an invariable rule of conduct to practise that divine precept, in doing to others, as we would wish others to do unto us. Some years ago too, the taxes imposed upon deaths, marriages, and baptisms, made them be considered as a kind of contraband goods, and for that reason, many of them were as much as possible concealed from public view, that they might elude an imposition, which they called tyrannical and oppressive. Though in a different language, this novelty, to their experience, incited the people frequently to utter the indignant sentiment of Bajaculus, general of Antibarii, as mentioned by Tacitus, “Deesse,” says he, “terra in qua vivamus, in qua morimur, on potest.” To the operations of these causes, it must be imputed, that so little satisfactory light, respecting the population, can be derived from the mutilated records of the old session of Kirkmichael.

By the most accurate inquiry, it has been found that this parish contains 1276 inhabitants, young and old, and of both sexes. Of these, 384 are Roman Catholics: all the individuals of each profession are included, in 253 families, containing, at an average, 5 persons to a family, with 265 [434] children under 8 years of age. By consulting the session records for the years 1749, 1750, and 1751, when the records appear to have been kept with more than usual accuracy, in the first of these periods, there were born 14 males, and 14 females; in the second, 23 males and 20 females; and in the third, 16 males, and 16 females.

During the 4 last years, according to a late survey, there have been born, at an average, annually, 32 children, in the proportion of 21 males to 19 females. Old women are found to be more numerous than old men, in the proportion of 3 to 2. In this period, 10 have died of each; two men at the age of 95 and 86 years; and two women at the age of 93 and 95 years. During the same period, 14, at an average, have died annually. There is just now living, two men 88 years each, and three women, 87, 89, and 91, each. The average of marriages for the last 4 years, has been 6 annually.

By a pretty accurate calculation, the total of black cattle in the parish, amounts to 1400, with 7050 sheep, 310 goats, and 303 horses. No other domesticated animals are reared, except some poultry, and a few geese.

Acres, Rent, Etc

The whole parish, exclusive of the forest of Glenavon, Glenbuilg, and the hill pasture belonging to the davoch of Delnabo, the property of Sir James Grant, contains 29,500 acres, of which little more than 1550 are arable. The whole rent may be about £1100 Sterling; but to a certain extent of grass following each farm, no rent is affixed.

Ecclesiastical State, Schools, Poor, Etc

The glebe, manse, and garden, occupy a space of between 9 and 10 acres, situated on an eminence, and hanging upon the sloping sides. A part of the soil is poor, and a part tolerably fertile. The value [435] of it may be about £6. No grass is annexed, except a share of the common hill pasturage. It lies at the distance of 3 computed miles from the moss, to which there is a bad road, rising into accents, and falling into declivities. In rainy weather, a kind of gully contiguous to it, becomes impassable, which frequently prevents the minister from getting home his fuel in the proper season. Owing to this circumstance, he is generally ill supplied, and obliged to accommodate himself at some distance in the neighbourhood, at a considerable expense.

The church was built in 1747, and has been never since repaired. As a house of worship, it would appear to a stranger to be totally deserted. A few broken windows mark the stable walls: the glass is broken, and gives free access to the winds from all the cardinal points. Were the people enthusiasts, a little current of air might be necessary to cool them; but in their present disposition, they frequently complain of the inroads of the cold, to disturb them in their sober meditations; yet they never express a wish to remove the inconvenience. Their apathy is the more extraordinary, as his Grace the Duke of Gordon, is ever ready to listen to the representations of his people, and never refuses to grant them a just and equitable request.

Sir James Grant is patron of this parish. From 1717, till 1786, the stipend of this parish was no more than £47: 4s:52/3d. Sterling. During the latter of these years, his Grace the Duke of Gordon, informed of the smallness of the living, was pleased to bestow upon the present incumbent, without the painful feeling of solicitation, a gratuitous augmentation; and this at a time when the Court of Session were inimical to such claims. The stipend, at present, is £68:6s:8d. Sterling, with £10 Sterling, allowed by his Grace for a house. It will not be deemed a digression, to mention that his Grace gave a farm to the present incumbent, at a moderate rent, when an advanced one, and a fine of 20 guineas were offered by others.

There are 2 schools: a Society one at Tammtoul, with [436] with a salary of £13:10s. and a parochial one at Tamchlaggan, with a salary of £8:6s.:8d.

No funds appropriated for the relief of the poor, have been hitherto established in this parish. Three years ago, the trifling sum of £5 Sterling, was bequeathed by an old woman; and, without exaggeration, few parishes stand more in need of charitable contributions of the well disposed. The number of the old and infirm at present on the list, amounts to 32 persons; while the annual collection, distributed last week, came to no more than 42s.6 ½ d. Sterling. In this large treasure, designed to be incorruptible, beyond the power of moths and rust, there were 1s., 5 sixpences, 443d., and 50 farthings.

In the years 1782 and 1783, the incumbent felt experimentally the wretched condition of the poor here, and from the neighbouring countries. Though his own income was only, at that time, £47:.4s:5½d. yet of this pittance, he expended, at a moderate calculation, £7 Sterling, each of these years, in charity. Preaching that virtue to others, the forlorn urged their claims to him for the practice of his doctrine; nor were their claims, proportionate to his abilities, refuted. During the above years, his Grace the Duke of Gordon extended a humane concern to the distresses of the inhabitants, by supplying them in meal and seed-corn, at a moderate price. No person, as far as the writer of this statistical article knows, died of want, though it may be presumed that a portion of aliment, unusually scanty, might prove the ultimate cause of the death of several.

As the poor are peculiarly under the protection of providence, and left as a tax upon the affluence and luxury of their more fortunate brethren of mankind, it were to be wished, that in parishes where there are no funds, where the contributions are small, proprietors would be pleased to bestow some little annual sum, under proper restrictions, to afford them relief. Such charity might contribute to secure themselves a property in a more permanent country, and better climate than the present, where, even according to Homer [illegible.]

The price of provisions in this country has been different, at different times. In the reign of King William, it is well known [437] known that a famine prevailed over the whole kingdom, and continued during several years. Either agriculture, at that time, must have been imperfectly understood, or the calamity must have been severe, when a boll of meal cost £1:6s.:8d. Sterling. The year 1709, is also noted for a dearth, and winter, uncommonly rigorous over every part of Europe.
In France, it is described by a Poet of the time, as blasting trees, and affecting even the vine.
“----hinc.” Says he, “nostros et nux et oliva per agros
Interiit, brumaeque truci vix restitit ilex.”
The effects were felt in this country, and victual rose in proportion; the boll of meal cost £1:3s. Sterling. There are many still alive, who remember the year 1740. The frosts came in September, and the snow fell so deep in October, that the corn continued buried under it, till January and February following. At that period, the boll of meal rose to the exorbitant price of 30s. the boll: and to increase the misery of the people, those who sold it, frequently mixed it with lime, which to many proved fatal. To support life, the people over the Highlands, in general, were obliged frequently to let blood from their cattle, a practice now that is never used in this country. About 30 years ago, the seasons being favourable, the boll of meal sold at the low price of 6s. 8d. During the last 20 years, the average price exclusive of 1782 and 1783, has been about 16s. Sterling. The price of black cattle and sheep, for 8 years backward, has been, upon the whole, high; cows and calves have sold for £5, £6 and £7 each: sheep and lambs for 10s and 12s, each; oxen for £5 and £7 each, sometimes £8. For the last 3 years, the prices have abated near a third. Poultry fell at for 6d. and 7d. each, and pullets for 2d. and 3d. each; eggs fell at 2d. and 2½d. the dozen. The difference between the prices of these articles at present, and in ancient times, cannot be accurately ascertained; but before the year 1745, which forms a remarkable era in the Highlands, oxen sold for £2 and 50s.: cows, with their calves, for 25s. and 20s. and 30s.; and sheep, with their lambs, 2s.6d., and 3s.6d. ; and other articles in proportion.

From a consideration of the circumstances of the Highlands, which, previous to 1745, were in some measure stationary, it may be presumed, that during a considerable time, these were the standard prices; but the spirit of commerce introduced into the S. of Scotland, operates with extended influence, [438] and makes the prices vary here, according to the changes and fluctuations which it produces.

Male servants receive £3 Sterling, in the half year, the period for which they usually engage; boys, 20s, and 30s,; and maids, 20s and £15 Sterling, in the half year. The price of day’s labour, to men 1s.8d., 10d, and 12; and to women 6d., and sometimes 8d. In these, their meat is sometimes included, but in harvest, these wages are given, exclusive of their victuals. The advanced price of labour, is one of the grievances of which farmers chiefly complain. They feel, from experience, that, in point of case, comforts, and independence, the condition of servants, is more eligible than that of their masters. The short term of engagement, wages immoderately high, inspire them with a pride, influence, and indifference, that would frequently require a meek and patient spirit to break. Nice in the choice of their food to squeamishness, it must neither fall short, nor exceed that exact proportion of cookery, which their appetites can relish. Care too must be taken, that no offence shall be offered them. They must sleep in the morning as long, and go to be bed at night as soon, as their pleasure dictates. Expostulations are opposed by rudeness. If their behaviour is disagreeable, their masters are at liberty to provide themselves with others, against the first term. And seldom do they fail to give scope for this liberty. When the term arrives, then, like birds of passage, they change their residence, or migrate to distant countries. In the present period of their history, in this and the neighbouring countries, they seem to be the only class of subjects who enjoy the most, and abuse the freedom of the English Constitution.

[438]Among other grievances, it must not be omitted, that the inhabitants in this, and the contiguous districts, descant with melancholy declamation, on the heavy and increasing taxation imposed by Government. Salt, leather, and iron, whether it be, in order to increase the revenue, they are, as it were, farmed out, and have become a kind of monopoly, or that an additional tax is laid upon them; whatever be the cause, they bitterly complain of the unusual and exorbitant prices of these articles. It is pleasant to hear them observe, that from the tax upon leather, in particular, they will derive one advantage: it will diminish the number of beggars, by confining them in winter to their booths to die at leisure, without the trouble of exposing them, as the Scythian Alani did their infirm [439] to the frozen blasts of their bleak mountains. Of every tax imposed, as felt from experience, the seller is ever sure to avail himself, by exacting double in the price paid by the purchaser. May not then the question be put, whether Politicians, and the sharp-eyed, Argusses of the state, should not make provision against this species of fraud. The rent of land is no doubt considerably augmented, but still not beyond a just proportion to its productions. But when all the burdens under which the farmer labours are put together, the exactions of Government, advanced price of labour, suggested rents, short leases, and considerable fines, it must be acknowledged, that the condition of the farmer is far from being eligible ; and that what Virgil said of that profession, in his own time, cannot be asserted at present
“O fortunatos nimium sua si bona norint.”
It is the lot, however, of the generality of this class of men, in most parts of the Highlands of Scotland, to be better acquainted with the reverse of the description. To go into their houses, and take a view of their contents, seats covered with dust, children pale and emaciated, parents ill clothed with care-furrowed countenances, exhibits a striking picture of Bythinian Phineus, as described by Apollenius Rhadius, whose victuals the harpies continually devoured, and left the miserable owner to hunger and despair.
[illegible Greek, Ed.]
But in equity, moderation and humanity, his Grace the Duke of Gordon, is as much distinguished from many of the other proprietors in the Highlands, as by his great and opulent fortune. From that rage which now prevails for colonizing the country with sheep, his Grace is happily exempted, and is determined at the exploration of the present leases, to discourage a practice, that, by an unrestrained licence, would soon depopulate the country of its ancient inhabitants.

Village, Etc

Tammtoul is the only village within the precincts of this parish. It is inhabited by 37 families, without a single [440] manufacture by which such a number of people might be supposed to be able to acquire a subsistence. The Duke of Gordon leaves them at full liberty, each to pursue the occupation most agreeable to them. No monopolies are established here; no restraints upon the industry of the community. All of them sell whisky, and all of them drink it.

When disengaged from this business, the women spin yarn, kiss their inamoratos, or dance to the discordant sounds of an old fiddle. The men, when not participating in the amusement of the women, sell small articles of merchandise, or let themselves occasionally for days labour, and by these means earn a scanty subsistence for themselves and families. In moulding human nature, the effects of habit are wonderful. This village, to them, has more than the charms of a Thessalian Tempe. Absent from it, they are seized with the mal de pais; and never did a Laplander long more ardently for his snow-clad mountains, than they sicken to revisit the barren moor of their turf-thatched hovels. Here the Roman Catholic priest has got an elegant meeting-house, and the Protestant clergyman, the reserve of it; yet, to an expiring mode of worship, it would be illiberal to envy this transient superiority, in a country where a succession of ages has witnessed its absurdities. A school is stationed at this village, attended by 40 or 50 little recreants, all promising to be very like their parents.

In personal respect and fortune, at the head of the inhabitants, must be ranked, Mrs McKenzie, of the best inn, at the sign of the horns. This heroine began her career of celebrity, in the accommodating disposition of an early virtue, at the age of 14, in the year 1745. That year saw her in a regiment in Flanders, caressing and caressed. Superior to the little prejudices of her sex, she relinquished the first object of her affection, and attached herself to a noble personage high in the military department. After a campaign or two spent in acquiring a knowledge of man and the world, Scotland saw her again; [441] but wearied of the inactivity of rural retirement, she then married, and made her husband enlist in the Royal Highlanders at the commencement of the war in 1756. With him she navigated the Atlantic, and sailed forth on American ground in quest of adventures, equally prepared to meet her friends, or encounter her enemies, in the fields of Venus or Mars, as occasion offered. At the conclusion of that war, she revisited her country.

After a variety of vicissitudes in Germany, France, Holland, England, Ireland, Scotland, America, and the West Indies, her anchor is now moored on dry land in the village of Tammtoul. It might be imagined, that such extremes of climate, such discordant modes of living, such ascents and declivities, so many rugged paths, so many severe bruises, as she must have experienced in her progress through life, would have impaired her health, especially when it is considered, that she added 14 children to the aggregate of general births, besides some homunculi that stopped short in their passage. Wonderful, however, as it may appear, at this moment she is as fit for her usual active life as ever; and except 2 or 3 grey hairs vegetating from a mole upon one of her cheeks, that formerly set off a high ruddy complexion, she still retains all the apparent freshness and vigour of youth.

Antiquities, Eminent Men, Etc

[441] No crosses, no obeliks, no remains of antiquity have been hitherto discovered in this parish. That it was ever visited by the Romans, is not probable. In that expedition, in which Severus lost 50,000 men, as recorded by the abbreviator of Dio Cassius, no vestige exists that any part of his army pursued their rout through the mountains and defiles of Strath-ath-fhin: no marks of encampments are to be seen; there is no tradition, that either Roman urns, or Roman coins have been ever discovered. In the year 1715, a small fort was erected in the southern extremity, but soon after, it was abandoned, and now lies in ruins. The great road that passes through the country, to facilitate the march of the troops between Perth and Fort-George, was not made till the year 1754: and now the stages are so bad, that few travel it. The roads here, in general are wretched beyond description; and yet the people, in terms of the statute, are annually called out to work at them. This only can be imputed to their indolence, their want of the necessary implements, and the ignorance, or indifference [442]of the persons appointed to superintend them. No good roads can be expected according to the present mode of management. To effect this, a commutation is absolutely necessary. On the river Ath-fhin, there is a bridge, where it is crossed by the great road. Two other bridges, one at Devoran, and one at Delnacairn, a little E. of the kirk, would prove essentially useful, as they would facilitate the water-course, which at present is frequently interrupted, and render the communication safe and commodious. Another upon Ailrac at Delnabo, and one upon Conlass at Ruthven, would also be very necessary.

[442]As far as tradition can be depended upon, no battle, nor skirmish of consequence, ever happened in this country. The only one mentioned, was fought between Macdonald of the Isles, and an Alexander Stewart, chief of that name. The former, with the greatest part of his men, was killed, and from the carnage of that day, the place is still called Blar nan Mairbh, the mob or field of the dead.

Casual recounters have frequently happened. Manslaughter, murder, and robbery, at a period not very remote, from a distinguishing feature in the character of the Highlanders. But from the detail of such scenes of barbarity, the human mind turns away with horror. One instance, however, it may not be improper to mention: In the year 1575, soon after the establishment of the Reformation of Scotland, a priest who had refused to marry the uncle to his niece, was seized by the ruffian and his party, laid upon a faggot, bound to a stone, and in this manner burnt to death. The rememberance of this atrocious deed is still preserved in the name of the stone, which to this day, is called Clach-an t’-shagairt, or the Priest’s stone.

If any persons of eminence were ever born in this district, time has swept them from its annals. But, if such there have been, Mr.George Gordon of Foddaletter, is justly entitled to be ranked in the number. This gentleman’s abilities rose beyond that mediocrity, which sometimes acquires celebrity without the possession of merit. As a chymist and botanist, his knowledge was considerable; and this knowledge he applied to the extension of the useful arts. At an early period of life, he discovered, that by a certain preparation, the excrescence of the stones and rocks of the mountains, forms a beautiful [443] purple dye. It is called in the Gaelic, crottal, from cort, a bunch, and eil, a rock. He erected a manufacture of it at Leith. At that place, in 1765, the inventor died, much regretted; while his mind was teeming with various and original projects for the improvement of his country.

As a contrast to the above gentleman, may be mentioned James an Tuim, or James of the Hill. His real name was Grant and the nephew of Grant of Carron, a gentleman of property. While a very young man, he committed manslaughter at Elgin. Being rigorously prosecuted, he betook himself to the hills and woods of the country for shelter. From that wandering kind of life to which necessity had reduced him, he soon became noted for address, stratagem, activity, and those talents that are the result of the school of adversity.

In consequence of the success attending some of his solitary adventures, a band of desperadoes belonging to this parish, attached themselves to his fortunes; under his conduct, they became the terror of the surrounding countries, till at length embracing wider range, their lawless depredations drew the attention of the parliament of Scotland. A considerable reward was offered for apprehending him. A gentleman of the name Macintosh undertook the achievement. By corrupting the Landlord of an inn, which James an Tuim frequented, he expected to accomplish his purpose ; but an hour or two before the time concerned for the perfidy, such was the intelligence of the freebooter, that he came with his party to the house, forced away the landlord, and hung him to an apple-tree, that marked the march of the contiguous parish. There is a letter still extant at Castle Grant, written by the Privy Council, thanking the Laird of that name for having apprehended him. Imprisoned in the castle of Edinburgh, his wanted presence of mind did not desert him. His wife came to visit him in his confinement, and brought a kit full of ropes with her, covering the surface with butter. By the aid of this machinery, James an Tuim made his escape. He went over to Ireland, where having killed one of the most formidable freebooters of that country, Lord Antrim, as a reward, procured him a pardon from the Crown; and having returned to this country, he died a natural death. Such frequently is the exit of the profligate, as well as the virtuous, with respect to this world. A stanza is still recited in this country, descriptive of his character, according to the standard of excellence that prevailed at the time.

’Ta no ghradh ’s thar gach duinne
An Sheimas an Tuim’.
[444] Ruidh to, leumè thu, ’s dhansash tu cruinn;
’S chuireadh tu treum-fhir, a bhar am buinn,
’ ’S cha d’ fhailnich riamh d mhisnach, do
Thappa’ na d’ luim.

“Above all others, James of the Hill is the object of my affection, expert in running, in leaping, and dancing, and in overcoming the brave in wrestling. Thou art the object of my secret affection.”

Such accomplishments, under the direction of an enlightened reason, might have converted the freebooter into a hero.

Stature, Etc

[444] Many have asserted, that in size and stature, the people of modern times, have decreased considerably from that of their ancestors. The calculations of a Mr. Hennan of the French Academy, upon this subject, are curious and eccentric. This gentleman asserts, that Adam measured 123 feet, and Eve 118. To what diminutive dwarfs is the present generation dwindled down, in comparison of these venerable prototypes of the human race. If this account were true, the fable of Tithonus should have been realized long ago; and before this period, we must have been reduced to a size less than a grass-hopper. But laying aside the chimeras of conjecture, every old man in this district can recollect the time when many of the inhabitants were stronger, bigger, and more robust than at present.

Some little difference may be accounted for, from the operation of natural causes. When the seasons were more favourable, the population less crowded, when neither a heavy taxation, augmented rents, nor constant labour crushed the body, nor enfeebled the mind; there is no absurdity in supposing, that in such circumstances, man might have attained to a fuller growth and development of stature. The tree planted in a kindly sod, strikes a stronger root, and spreads more verdant branches, than that of the desert, limited in its vegetable nutrient, and assailed by the blasts from the N. And it is remarkable, that in that rank of Society, that is, neither on the one hand, oppressed by poverty, nor on the other, pampered with luxury, the symmetry of the human form, is the most beautiful and perfect.

In this and the surrounding countries, the mean size may be about 5 feet 7 [445] inches. There are 3 individuals in this parish above 6 feet; 13, 5 feet 10 inches; and some of them 5 feet 11 inches; there are many who measure 5 feet 8 inches in height.

Means of Improvement

From the geographical view of this country, it will occur to the attentive observer that the condition of the inhabitants appears to admit of little melioration. For the improvements of agriculture and manufactures, the country is ill calculated. Till the country be enclosed, artificial grass cannot be raised; and enclosures would be attended with an expense disproportionate to their circumstances, as the farms are broke and discontiguous; besides, that to succeed in this branch of husbandry, they would be obliged to dispense with sheep, at present their staple commodity. Upon the supposition that such a change should happen, as the people are far from the market, grass would become a drug upon their hands; and to substitute it in place of straw for provender, would not indemnify them for the expense. Such reasoning may be sallacious, but it is in their own, and hitherto has determined them to follow the practice of their ancestors, to which they have invariably adhered, except in their articles of turnips and potatoes. Of these, they raise a considerable quantity, what may be equal to two months of annual consumption of the whole inhabitants.

Manufacturers

In this parish, there are 4 mills; the multures of these together, will scarce amount to 80 bolls of meal, and this quantity multiplied by 32, the proportion paid to each, will make the whole quantity of victual raised in the country 2560 bolls. When this number is divided by 1276 individuals, it will be found, that each will have little more to live upon, during the year, that 2 bolls of meal; besides, [446] that from the whole quantity of victual, as mentioned above, foreign beggars subtract, at a moderate calculation, 60 bolls. No manufactures of any kind have as yet been established in this country; and the presumption is, that a considerable time must elapse before such an event can happen.

Precluded from an early communication with the countries around, living in the midst of hills and scattered defiles, at the distance of 40 measured miles from the nearest sea-port, the situation of the people is very unfavourable for such an attempt; besides that, they have few materials to work upon. There cattle and sheep, the staple commoditie, are driven to the S., and sold there, and their wool raw and unwrought, to the low countries of Banff and Moray-shires. Even should that spirit of enterprise rouse them, it could not be of long duration. The difficulty of getting fuel where the centre of the country lies far from mosses, the dearness of provisions where the land seldom produces a sufficiency to support its inhabitants , would dampen their efforts, as they would soon experience the manifest advantage of others over them, in the competition of the distant market. Before the year 1745, that area of innovation in the Highlands, every one almost in this country, like the famous Crusoe, was his own artisan. No later than last summer, a shoemaker from Edinburgh, and a tailor from Dundee, were obliged to desert the country for want of employment. Where there are almost no handcraftliness, there can be no apprentices. In a country so remote from that element, there can be no seamen.

Learned Professions

All retainers to the law, except one sheriff–officer and three constables, if they can be classed among that species of men, feel this country rather cold for their residence. Never was the solemn brow of a Justice of Peace seen in the parish of Kirkmichael, before last autumn. At that time two gentlemen, natives, were installed in the office. Nor is there any danger like the poor shoemaker and tailor, that they will not find sufficient employment. A spirit of litigation, during many years ago, has prevailed among the people. Unfortunately for them, this spirit was originally imported by strangers, persons whom the courtesy of the country dignified with the name of gentlemen, but as much [447] entitled to that character as a Russian bear.

Now, at 2 annual fairs held at the village of Tammtoul, one may see the law-fed vampers walking in consequential state, attended by their clients, while words sweet as honey from their lips distil. But this honey, in the issue, never fails to change into gall, to some one or another of the contending parties. The gentlemen of the law may be offended at the suggestion, but it is much to be desired, that proprietors would interpose their authority, by appointing sensible and impartial men to decide upon the differences arising among their people. Such, or the like expedient, might preserve industrious families from ruin, and the unwary parents, from the dangerous imposition of pettyfoggers.

Medical gentlemen are seldom called to this country. Mountain, air, and constant exercise, render their aid, for the most part, unnecessary; besides that, the people can ill afford to pay doctors and retainers of the law at the same time.

Animals

The domesticated animals here, have no peculiarity to distinguish them from such as may be met with almost in every other part of the Highlands. These have been described already. The wild ones are deer, foxes, badgers, polecats, otters, and hares.

In former times the ravenous wolf, (The last said to be killed in this country, was about 150 years ago; yet it probable that wolves were in Scotland for some time after that period, as the last killed in Ireland was in 1769.) and the bounding chamois, were numerous in the Grampian mountains . It has already been mentioned, that the Grampian mountains housed this parish toward the W. From this country they stretch in a continued range, almost without interruption to the Corran of Ard-gothas, where Invernesshire is divided from Argyllshire, by an arm of the Diu-caledonian sea. Diu-caledonian is derived from Tail, a body of water, and Cael-doine, the Celtic men. This word the Romans inflected into Caledonian. Mr. Whitaker of Manchester says that diu signifies water. In the Caledonian dialect of the Celtic, at present, such a word signifying water, is not known; yet, such a word be supposed [448] to have existed formerly, as it may still be traced in the name of some rivers. The Caledonian sea, according to the Alexandrian geographer, extended from the Mull of Galloway, to Faro Head . [illegible Greek Ed.]

As a proof of this, it may not be [448] unacceptable to the curious reader, to subjoin a passage from “Barclay de Regno, et Regali potestate,” describing a singular kind of hunting feast, with which the Earl of Atholl entertained Mary Queen of Scots*.

“Anno,” says he, “1563, Comes Atholiae ex regio sanguine princeps venationem ingenti apparatu et magnis sumptibus, optimae atque illustrissimae reginae Scotiae exhibuit, cui ego tunc adolscens intereci. Cujusmodi venationem regiam nostrales appellare solent. Habebat autem comes as duo millia Scotorum montanorum, quos vos his Scotos sylvestres appellatis, quibus negotium dedit ut cervos cogerent ex sylvis et montibus Atholiae, Badenachae, Marriae, Moraviae, aliisque vicinis regionibus ; atque ad locum agerent venationi destinatum.

Illi vero, ut sunt valde pernices et expediti, ita dies noctesque concursarunt, ut intra bimensis tempus amplius 2000 cervorum, cum damis et capreis unum in locum compulerint ; quos reginae, principibusque in valle confidentibus et caeteris qui una aderant omnibus visendos venandosque proposuerint. Sed ita mihi crede, omnes illi cervi, velut agmine composito incedebant. Haeret enim, haerebitque semper id animo spectaculum meo, ut ducem unum et rectorem cerneres praecuntem, quen alii quoque iret subsequebantur. Is autem, cervus erat forma praestanti et cornibus, ingens qua ex re non mediociem animo cepit voluptatem ; cepit mox et timporem, ubi ad eam Atholius, qui ta libus a pueritia venationibus assueverat, vides inquit ducem illum cornigerum qui turmampraeit ? periculum nobis ab illo est.

Si enim aliquis eum furor, timorve ab isto montis dorso in hanc planitiem compulerit nostrum sibi quisque prospiciat : nemo certe ab i juria tutus erit : quandoquindem caeteri eum sequentur confertim, et viam, sibi ad hunc, qui a tergo est montem nobis proculcatis statim aperient. Cujus sententiae veritatem alius illico eventus patefecit. Laxatus enim reginae jussu atque immissus in lupum insignis admodum atque ferox canis fugientem inseqitur, ita vervum illum ductorem exterruit, ut retio unde venerat fugam capesseret : cunctique cum eo regressi eruperunt ea parte, qua montanorum corona arctissime cingebantur, ipsis vero montanis nihil spei, nihil perfugii reliquuum fuit, nisi ut strati in erica pronos se proculari, aut praeterni paterentur ; quorum nonnullos cervi transiliendo vulnerarunt, alterum quoque aut tertium peremerunt, ut statim reginaew nunciatum fuit. Et vero ita glomerati evasisient mones, ni homines illi venatus peritissimi ipsos e vestigio secuti [449] arte quadam extremos ab ipso agmine distraxissent, qui mox reginae et nobilium canibus in praedam cessere. Confecti autem eo die fuerunt circiter 360 cum lupis et capreis aliquor.

[449] In these mountains, it is asserted by the country people, that there is a small quadruped which they call famh. In summer mornings it issues from its lurking places, emitting a kind of glutinous matter fatal to horses, if they happen to eat of the grass upon which it has bee deposited. It is somewhat larger than a mole, of a brownish colour, with a large head disproportionate to its body. From this deformed appearance, and its noxious quality, the word seems to have been transferred to denote a monster, a cruel mischievous person, who, in Gaelic language, is usually called a famhfhear. Other quadrupeds once indigenous to the Grampian mountains are now extinct, and now known only by name; such as the Torc-neimh, or wild boar (It has been asserted by some antiquaries, that the boar was never a native of Scotland. It is a fact, however, well vouched, that during the residence of the Romans in Britain, boars were sent from it to Rome and baited there. In an ancient Gaelic Poem ascribed to Ossian, the hero Dermid is said to have been killed by a boar on Beinn Ghielleinn in Perthshire), an lon, or the bison. Lizards, and serpents, may be frequently met with, and, of the latter, different species, some of them striped and variegated, others black and hairy. It is a curious fact, that goats eat serpents, without any prejudice from their bite. Hence, it has passed into a proverb, cleas na gaoithr githeadh na nathrach, “like the goat eating the serpent,” importing a querulous temper in the midst of plenty. Incredible as this fact may appear, it may not be improbable. Goats are animals that feed much upon plants and herbs; and upon the supposition that the bite of serpents were more poisonous than what they are known to be in our northern latitudes; yet, by an instinct of nature, goats might be led to have recourse [450] to such plants and herbs as are an antidote against their bite. In confirmation of this supposition, there is a pleasant little story told in elegant Latinity, by Vanier the Jesuit. It will not perhaps be altogether a digression to cite the verses.

Mustela didicit quondam monstrante colonus
Tabisicos, quid ruta valet serpentis ad ictus,
Illa reluctantem cum forte lacesseret anguem;
Insectis quoties membris lethale veneum
Hauserat, ad rutam fugiens, tactuque salubri
Occulte medicans, non segnior ibat in hostem,
Rusticus excelso rem demiratus ab agro,
Avulsis quae sola fuit, radicibus herbam
Abstulit; exanimis cadit heu! Mustela venemo
Turgida nam Toto rutam dum quaeritat agro
Intima corda subit, jam non medicabile virus

After this casual manner, many of the medicaments of modern pharmacy, have been originally discovered.

There is also a small kind of reptile called bratag, covered with a downy hair, alternatively spotted into black and white; if cattle happen to eat it, they generally feel unwell, and sometimes die. It has the same effect upon sheep.

The birds in this parish are of the same genus and species with those of the neighbouring countries; such as moorfowl, partridges, wild duck, crows, magpies, wood pigeons, hawks, kites, owls heron, snipes, king’s fisher, swallows, sparrows, blackbird and thrush. In the higher hills are ptarmigans. In the steep and abrupt rocks of Glenavon, the eagle builds its eyry; and during the latter end of spring, and beginning of summer, is very destructive to kids, lambs and fawns. Some of the more adventurous shepherds, watching them at this season of depredation, frequently scale the rugged rocks, where they nestle, and share with their young in the spoil. Till of late years that his sequestered haunts have been disturbed by the intrusion of numerous flocks of sheep, the black cock, or gallus Scotticanus, was wont to hail the dawn of the vernal morning amidst the heaths of this country. If, like the feathered tribe in Aesop, this fine bird could articulate, he might complain with the Poet, “Nos patriam fugimus, et dulcia linquimus arva.” Now he has fled to Strathspey, where the numerous and extensive woods afford him a secure retreat. The black cock is well described by Leslie, in his History of Scotland. “Alia avis,” says he, “est etiam in his regionibus numerosa, superiore minor (the capercoille) [451] hirsutis pedibus, palpebris rubricantibus; nostri gallum nigrum tesquorum appellitant.” The caper-coille, once a native here, is now totally extinct, and known only by name. He continued in Strathspey till the year 1745. The last seen in Scotland, was in the woods of Strathglas, about 32 years ago.

If the swallow may be excepted, the cuckoo and lapwing, “tiring its echoes with unvaried cries,” are the only migratory birds that pay their annual visits to this country; and after a short stay, wing their flight to more genial climates. The former seldom appears before the beginning of May, and often its arrival is announced by cold blasts from the N., and showers of snow, which are considered as an auspicious omen of the approaching summer. This temporary rigour of the weather is called by the people, glas-fhiontachd na cuach, or the heavy storm of the cuckoo.

Wood, Shrubs, Herbs, Etc

[451] At a period perhaps not very remote, this country was covered with wood. In the hills and mosses by which it is bordered, fir-root is found in such abundance, that it supplies the inhabitants with a warm and luminous light during the tedious nights of winter. Frequently large trunks of the fir are found at a considerable depth below the surface. Occupied in this employment, many of the poorer people drive the root to the low country, from which they bring meal, iron, salt, and other articles in exchange; and by this mode of industry, earn a precarious subsistence for themselves and families during the summer season. No fir-wood, however, at present exists, except a few scattered trees in the southern extremity, upon the banks of the Avon. The only woods to be seen, are birch and alder, and these covering but a small extent of ground. Till of late, groves of alder, in which were trees of pretty large dimensions, grew, in several places along the banks of the river, but now they are almost cut down, and will soon be totally consumed. These, with a little hazel, thorns, haw-thorns, holly, willows, and mountain-ash, are the only species of wood that still remain.

Indigenous shrubs of different kinds grow wild in the hills, that carry fruit, such as wild strawberries [452] two kinds of black berries, and two of red berries. In the beginning of harvest, when these fruits are ripe, they are sought for with avidity by the poorer children, to whom, during the season of their maturity, they supply a portion of food. It is probable, that formerly, if at any time the labours of chase proved unsuccessful, even the men and women of ancient Caledonia allayed their hunger by theses spontaneous productions of nature. Dio Cassius expressly asserts, that our ancestors made use of a vegetable preparation, by which they repressed, for a time, that impertunate appetite. Caesar seems to allude to it in his description of the Chara. This soft inserted Chara of the Roman, evidently points to the Cor of the Caledonians. Cor signifies excellent, superominent, a very expressive and appropriate name, if it supplied the place of food. It grows a little below the surface of the ground, and spreads laterally into several ramifications, carrying larger or smaller knobs according to the soil, and at irregular distances. In spring it protrudes a small greenish stalk, and in summer bears a beautiful flower, which changing into pods, contains seed, when the root becomes insipid and loses its virtue. The country people, even at present, are wont to steep it among water, where having continued for some days, it becomes a pleasant and nutritive drink. Till of late that the little wood of the kind has been better preserved, the inhabitants used in the month of March to extract a liquid from the birch, called fion-na-uisg, a bheartha, (the wine or water of the birch, or the water of life, is allusion to its sobriety) which they considered as very salubrious and conducive to longevity. By an easy metaphor, the name has been transferred to denominate that well know spirit distilled from malt; but a spirit of different effects in it consequence.

[453]It may not perhaps be improper to observe, that a tradition prevails among the Highlanders, that together with these, the Picts were acquainted with the art of extracting a delicious beverage from heath, and of an intoxicating quality. Except to make a yellow dye, the uses of this shrub at present, are unknown. But there is a probability, that in August, when it carries a beautiful purple bloom, if it were cropped in sufficient quantities, what is now considered as a fiction, might, by proper skill, be realized; for, at that season, it emits fragrant and honied effluvia. The writer of this statistical article is not so well acquainted with the science of botany, as to be able to enumerate the various plants and herbs that grow in this district. He believes few uncommon ones are to be met with unless among the Grampian mountains, which might afford a rich field of observation to the naturalist.

The plant called an dubh-chosach, black footed, or maiden hair, is frequently gathered among the woods and rocks, and used as a tea in asthmatic complaints. Another plant grows in several parts of the parish, and rises on a stalk near 2 feet in height. It spreads into small branches, with sharp pointed leaves of a pale green, and bears a pretty large berry, red at first, but changing into a livid hue as it ripens. Perhaps it may be the solanum somniferum of the historian Buchanan, by the aid of which, infused in the drink, and mixed with the meat presented by King Duncan to the Danes, he and his generals gained a decisive victory over that barbarous people. This berry is still considered as poisonous by the country people, and they cautiously abstain from it.

Modern scepticism rejects the above passage of the history, and considers it as fictitious; but in ancient times when the wants of the inhabitants were few, gratified from the spontaneous productions of the field, or the beasts of the forest, as they lived almost constantly in the open air, climbing rugged mountains, or plunging into woody dales, they must necessarily acquire a considerable knowledge of plants and herbs, together with their various and specific qualities: besides that agriculture being in a rude state, and many of the present domesticated animals unknown, owing to these causes, the vegetable race would arrive at a higher degree of perfection, and their virtues would consequently operate with more energy and effect.

In the list of plants, must be reckoned the seamrog, or the wild trefoil, in great estimation of old with the Druids. It is still considered as an anodyne in the diseases of cattle; from this circumstance [454]it has derived its name. Scimh, in the Gaelic, signifying pacific and soothing. When gathered, it is plucked by the left hand. The person thus employed, must be silent, and never look back till the businesses be finished.

Language

[454] The common idiom of this country, is a dialect of the ancient Celtic, which in remote ages pervaded the southern and western regions of Europe; and together with the Gothic, divided this quarter of the globe into two radical and distinct languages. Though the latter, owing to the better fortune of the people who spoke it, has prevailed over the former, yet may a considerable portion of the roots of several modern languages be traced to a Celtic original. This, however, is not the place for such discussions. The dialect spoken in this country is growing daily more corrupted, by the admission of Anglicisms, and a number of terms unknown to the simple arts of the ancient Highlanders. Such is the folly or bad taste of the people, that they gratify a preposterous vanity from this kind of innovation. It may therefore be well supposed, that the language is upon the decline; that the harmony of its cadence is gradually changing, and the purity of its structure mixing with foreign idioms. The young people speak Gaelic and English indifferently, and with equal impropriety. Their uncouth articulation of discordant words and jarring sounds, resembles the musick of frogs in a Dutch canal, harsh and disgusting to the Attic-ear of a genuine Highlander. Some of the old people speak the Gaelic, and consequently with a degree of propriety. On subjects of common occurrence, they are at no loss for expression in well chosen and natural language. Hence, it may be inferred, that the parish of Kirkmichael spoke the same dialect of the Celtic that is now spoken in Badenoch, making allowance for some little difference, in point of pronunciation.

[455] In terms descriptive of the objects of nature and local situations; in the names of the seasons of the year, of mountains, lakes, brooks, and rivers, their language is as just and appropriate as any in the Highlands of Scotland. There are a few words, however, that would seem peculiar to themselves, but which may be traced to the parent Celtic; some words are used by them metaphorically and not unappositely applied; of the latter are brath, signifying in the Druidical mythology, fire, particularly the fire of the universal conflagration. Brath is used in this country to denote a high degree of vehemence and passion. Thanig-brath-air – he was seized with rage. When they would express the impossibility of performing anything; they say, cha neille linn domh a dheauneamh – no age of mine can perform it. Line in its primitive acceptation, signifies a generation, but figuratively that period of time in which a generation becomes extinct. Mane too, in this country, is used to denote good fortune. Ata mane an eifg air – he has the luck of fish. From this word, the manes of the Romans have been originally derived. According to Varro, Manus Deus, was a propitious diety with the ancient inhabitants of Latium. Armun is another word in use among the people here, especially in their songs. They borrowed it from the Hebrid Isles. It is of Norwegian extraction, and used as the appellative for a hero, derived from Arminius the celebrated hero of Germany, mentioned by Tacitus. Praeliis, says that admirable writer, ambiguus, bello non victus – centurque, adhuc barbaras apud gentes.

In this country they have still many proverbs, and many of them beautiful, both with respect to language and sentiment. The insertion, however, of one of these, at present, may be sufficient. Eisd, say they, ri gaoth non gleann, gus an traogh na ‘huisgachaibh – Listen to the winds of the hills till the waters [456]assuage; importing that passion should be restrained till the voice of reason be heard.

The several branches of the Celtic now existing in Europe, are a venerable monument of antiquity. Independent of the intrinsic excellence, were all the words contained in them digested and formed into a dictionary, it might throw considerable light upon the history of a people, whose manners, customs, arts, and sentences, the revolution of ages has hatched from authentic records. Mr. Gibbon in his Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire, observes, that there is room for a very interesting work, to lay open the connexion between the language and the manners of a people. Few languages are better calculated for this purpose than the Celtic. Everyone acquainted with it, and endued with a taste to relish its beauties, must acknowledge its energy and descriptive powers. Equally adapted to melt, or to rouse, it has a style appropriated to the various passions. Instead of conveying feeble ideas, it exhibits lively postures. Sonorous and impressive, when the occasion requires, it penetrates the inmost recesses of the soul.

When the Greek and Roman languages were in their infancy, the Celtic lent them its aid; for many words of the two former are obviously derived from the latter. In a period then of such enterprise and improvement as the present, when philosophic curiosity explores the remotest corners of the globe, to enlarge the circle of human knowledge, it is somewhat extraordinary, that a language so ancient, and once so widely diffused, should be consigned to its fate, without one public effort to preserve its relicks and transmit them to posterity. To accomplish such a desirable object, would not be unworthy of the patronage of the Highland Society of London. As that respectable body consists of noblemen and gentlemen of independent fortunes, a small share of the superfluity of their affluence, might be successfully employed to arrest what still remains of the Celtic, and retrieve it from oblivion. Several attempts of this kind have been made, but they have been partial and imperfect. There is still wanting a work to embrace the whole, and which cannot be accomplished without patronage and munificence of the great. If the Empress of Russia has sent learned men to collect and explain the jargons spoken by the various tribes of barbarians inhabiting the inhospitable Caucasus, should not such a liberal example engage the attention, and excite the imitation of a more refined and civilized people?

A dictionary of the Gaelic is now in contemplation in Agyllshire, and the letters of its alphabet are divided among in equal number of clergymen; but as these gentlemen are confined to a particular country, and consider their own as the standard dialect of the Highlands, they make little inquiry concerning the modes of speech that prevail in other countries; consequently many pure and genuine Celtic words [457] must escape their researches, and be lost to the language; for this reason it would be necessary that every corner of the Highlands should be ransacked, and the words peculiar to each, collected and explained. It may further be observed, that the Celtic philologist should be well skilled in the Latin and Greek languages, and perhaps in those of France and Italy,

Superstitions, Ghosts, Fairies, Genii, Etc

[457] In a statistical account, even the weaknesses of the human mind may afford some little entertainment. That fear and ignorance incident to a rude state, have always been productive of opinions, rites, and observances which enlightened reason disclaims. But among the vulgar, who have not an opportunity of cultivating this faculty, old prejudices endeared to them by the creed of their ancestors, will long continue to maintain their influence. It may therefore be easily imagined, that this country has its due proportion of that superstition which generally prevails over the Highlands. Unable to account for the cause, they consider the effects of times and seasons, as certain and infallible.

The moon in her increase, full growth, and in her wane, are with them the emblems of a rising, flourishing, and declining fortune. At the last period of her revolution, they carefully avoid to engage in any business of importance; but the first and the middle they seize with avidity, presaging the most auspicious issue to their undertakings. Poor Martinus Scriblerus never more anxiously watched the blowing of the west wind to secure an heir to his genius, than the love-sick swain and his nymph for the coming of the new moon to be noosed together in matrimony. Should the planet happen to be at the height of her splendour when the ceremony is performed, their future life will be a scene of festivity, and all its paths strewed over with rose-buds of delight. But when her tapering horns are turned towards the N., passion becomes frost-bound, and seldom thaws till the genial season again approaches. From the moon, they [458] not only draw prognotifications of the weather, but according to their creed, also discover future events. There they are dimly pourtrayed, and ingenious illusion never fails in the explanation. The veneration paid to this planet, and the opinion of its influences, are obvious from the meaning still affixed to some words of the Gaelic language.

In Druidic mythology, when the circle of the moon was complete, fortune then promised to be the most propitious. Agreeably to this idea, rath, which signifies in Gaelic, a wheel or circle, is transferred to signify fortune. They say, “ata rath air,” he is fortunate. The wane, when the circle is diminishing, and consequently unlucky, they say, “ata mi-rath air”. Deas uil, and Tuath uil, are synonymous expressions, allusive to a circular movement observed in the Druidic worship.

Nor is it to the moon alone that they direct their regards; almost every season of the year claims a share of their superstition: Saimh-theine, or Hallow Eve; Beil-teine, or the first day of May; and Oidhch’ Choille, or the first night of January. The rites observed at Sairmh-theine, and Beil-teine, are well known, and need not be described. But on the first night of January, they observe, with anxious attention, the disposition of the atmosphere. As it is calm, boisterous; as the wind blows from the S. or the N.; from the E. or the W., they prognosticate the nature of the weather, till the conclusion of the year. The first night of the New Year, when the wind blows from the W., they call dàr-na coille, the night of the fecundation of the trees ; and from the circumstance has been derived the name of that night in the Gaelic language.

The opinion of the genial and fertilizing nature of the west wind, so prevalent in many countries of the Highlands, is one of those opinions that seem to have descended to them from the Druids. Virgil who was born in the Cisalpine [459] Gaul, and from his situation had an opportunity of being well acquainted with the doctrines of that order, has adorned his poetry with several beautiful allusions borrowed from their philosophic system. It was the imperfection of the same belief with them, of the impregnating power of the air, that influenced his fancy in that fine passage in the Georgicks.

Tum Pater Omnipotens faecundis imbribus Aether
Conjugis in graemium laetae descendit, et omnes
Magnus alit, magno commixtius corpore foetus.

In a similar strain of belief, he wrote that passage in the Third Georgick, where he describes the effects of the west wind in a latitude bordering upon the marvellous.

……………………………….illm
Ore omnes versae in zephyrum, stant rupibus alti;
Exceptantque leves auras et saepe sine ullis
Conjugiis, vento gravidae ………………….

[459] Their faith in the above signs, is couched in the following verses:

Gaoth a deas, teas is torradh,
Gaoth a niar, iasg is bainne,
Gaoth a tuath, suachd is gailinn,
Gaoth a near, meas air chrannaibh.

“The wind of the S. will be productive of heat and fertility; the wind of the W. of milk and fish; the wind from the N. of cold and storm; the wind from the E. of fruit on the trees.”

The appearance of the first three days of winter is also observed:

Dorach doirauta’ dubh,
Chead tri la do’n gheamthra;
Ge be bheire geil dhe’n chroi,
Cha tugainn ‘s e gu samthra.

[460] “Dark, lurid, and stormy, the first three days of winter; whoever would despair of the cattle, I would not till summer.”

The superstitious regard paid to particular times and seasons, is not more prevalent in this country, than the belief in the existence of ghosts. On the sequestered hill, and in the darksome valley, frequently does the benighted traveller behold visionary semblance of his departed friend, perhaps of his enemy. The former addresses him in the language of affection; if danger is approaching, he is warned to prepare against it, or the means of avoiding it disclosed. By the latter, he is attacked with the vehemence of resentment. The inhabitants of this, and the visitant from another world, engage in furious combat. For a while, the victory is suspense. At length the ghost is overthrown, and his violence appeased; a few traits of his life upon earth are described. If he stole a ploughshare from his neighbour, the place where it lies concealed is pointed out. His antagonist is requested to restore it to the owner; and if he fails, punishment is threatened to follow the breach of promise; for, till restitution be made, so long must the miserable culprit be excluded from the regions of the happy.

These illusions of fancy operate sometimes with such force, that severals have died in consequence of them; and some have been deprived of their reason. Fragments of the speeches of ghosts are frequently recited; and, like the responses of the Grecian oracles, are generally couched in verse, especially the more ancient fragments. Two of these it may not perhaps be improper to cite in the original. The one is an apostrophe from a beloved wife, to soothe the melancholy of a desponding husband.

Na bidhea’ (says she) ro ghaol, ’s na bidhea’ fuath,
Agad air fluagh innus thrèud;
Na smuanaigh air na chaidhe bhuait
’S chuid nach teachaidh bhuait, gun deid.

“Indulge excess neither of joy nor grief toward frail mortals; dwell not on the remembrance of the dead; for these that now are, most soon depart.”

The other is a stanza descriptive of the unembodied state, and supposed to be uttered by a ghost, not unlike that of Petroculus in Homer.
[Illegible Greek, Ed.]

Bha mi (says he) sad an cein an roir,
B’ easton ’s bu luainach mo cheim;
’N duradan ’n gath na grèine,
Cha neille connam fein do neart.

“Far distant last night, was my journey; light and bounding were my steps; unsubstantial as the atom in the beam of the sun, is the strength of my form.”

[461] Not more firmly established in this country, is the belief in ghosts, than that in fairies. The legendary records of fancy, transmitted from age to age, have assigned their mansions to that class of genii, in detached hillocks covered with verdure, situated on the banks of purling brooks, or surrounded by thickets of wood. These hillocks are called siothdhunan, abbreviated sioth-anan, from sioth, peace, and dun, a mound. They derive this name from the practice of the Druids, who were wont occasionally to retire to green eminences to administer justice, establish peace, and compose differences between contending parties. As that venerable order taught a Saoghl hal, or world beyond the present, their followers, when they were no more, fondly imagined, that seats, where they exercised a virtue so beneficial to mankind, were still inhabited by them in their disembodied state. In the autumnal season, when the moon shines from a serene sky, often is the wayfaring traveller arrested by the musick of the hills, more melodious than the strains of Orpheus, charming the shades, and restoring his beloved Eurydice to the regions of light.
Cantu commotae Erebi, de sedibus imis,
Umbrae ibant tenues.
[462] Often struck with a more solemn scene, he beholds the visionary hunters engaged in the chase, and pursuing the deer of the clouds, while the hollow rocks in long-sounding echoes reverbate their cries.
Chorus aequalis Dryadum,
If one were allowed to indulge in conjecture, and reason from analogy, it might be asserted with an appearance of probability, that the dryads and hamadryads of the Romans, were the same with the druids and druidesses of the Celts. It is universally acknowledged, that the dryads of the Greeks and Romans derive their name from the Greek word [illeg.] signifying an oak, and druid in the Celtic, from darach or deni, to which the same meaning is affixed. Hamadryad, is evidently derived from oi’, or oigh, a virgin, always asperated after the prefix of the article of the oblique case in the Celtic. Not withstanding the progressive increase of knowledge and proportional decay of superstition in the Highlands, these genii are still supposed by many of the people to exist in the woods and sequestered valleys of the mountains, where they frequently appear to the lonely traveller, clothed in green, with dishevelled hair floating over their shoulders, and with faces more blooming than the vermil blush of a summer morning.

At night in particular, when fancy assimilates to its own preconceived ideas, every appearance, and every sound, the wandering enthusiast is frequently entertained by their music, more melodious than he ever before heard. It is curious to observe, how much this agreeable delusion corresponds with the superstitious opinion of the Romans, concerning the same class of genii, represented under different names. The Epicurean Lucretius describes the credulity in the following beautiful verses:

Haec loca capripedes fatyros, nymphasque tenere
Finitimi pingunt, et faunos esse loquuntur;
Quorum noctivago strepitu, ludoque jocanti
Adfirmant volgo taciturina silentia rumpi
Chordaramque sonos fieri, dulcisque querelas
Tibia quas fundit digitis pulsata canetum:

The fauni are derived from the cubates, or faidhin of the Celtiae. Faidh is a prophet; hence is derived the Roman word fari, to prophecy.
clamore supremos, Implerunt montes
There are several now living, who assert that they have seen and heard this aerial hunting; and that they have been suddenly surrounded by visionary forms, more numerous than leaves strewed on the streams of Vallumbrora in [463] November blasts, and assailed by a multitude of voices, louder than the noise of rushing waters.

About 50 years ago, a clergyman in the neighbourhood, whose faith was more regulated by the scepticism of philosophy, that the credulity of superstition could not be prevailed upon to yield his assent to the opinion of the times. At length, however, he felt from experience, that he doubted what he ought to have believed. One night as he was returning home, at a late hour, from a presbytery, he was seized by fairies, and carried aloft into the air. Through fields of aether and fleecy clouds, he journied many a mile, descrying, like Sancho Panza on his Clavileno, the earth far distant below him, and no bigger than a nut-shell. Being then sufficiently convinced of the reality of their existence, they let him down at the door of his own house, where he often recited to the wondering circle, the marvellous tale of his adventure.

[463] The same credulity that gives air-formed inhabitants to green hillocks and solitary groves, has given their portion of genii to rivers and fountains. The presiding spirit of that element, in Celtic mythology, was called Neithe. The primitive of this word, signifies to wash, or purify with water. In the name of some rivers, it is still retained, as in the river Neithe of Abernethy in Stathspey. To this day, fountains are regarded with particular venerations over every part of the Highlands. The sick who resort to them for health, address their vows to the presiding powers, and offer presents to conciliate their favour. These presents generally consist of a small piece of money, or a few fragrant flowers. The same reverence, in ancient times, seems to have been entertained for fountains by every people in Europe. The Romans who extended their worship to almost every object in nature, did not forget in their ritual, the homage due to fountains. It is to this Horace alludes in his address to his limpid fountain of Blandusia.
O fons Blandusiae splendidior vitro,
Dulci digne mero, non sine floribus,
Cras donaberis haedo.
Some modern antiquaries have asserted, that the Celtic nations never worshipped [464] rivers, and had no divinities appropriated to them. Several ancient authorities, however, might be adduced to evince the contrary. Gildas expressly says, “Ut omittan,” talking of the Britons, “montes ipso, ant colles, aut fluvios, quibus divinus honor a caeco tunc populo cumulabatur.” The vulgar in many parts of the Highlands, even at present, not only pay a sacred regard to particular fountains, but are firmly persuaded that certain lakes are inhabited by spirits. In Strathspey, there is a lake still called Loch-nan Spioradan; the lake of spirits. Two of these are supposed frequently to make their appearance, the one under the form of a horse beautifully caparisoned, with golden trappings. With the bit of his bridle, the anti-conjurer of this parish expels jealously, and cures other maladies of the mind. The other under that of a bull docile as Jupiter wafting Europa over the Hellespont. The former is called, an each uisg, the horse of the water; the latter, an taru uisg, the bull of the water.

The mhaidan, mhare, or mermaid, is another spirit supposed to reside in the water. Before the rivers are swelled by heavy rains, she is frequently seen, and all the attributes of a beautiful virgin ascribed to that part of her person, that is visible. Her figure is enchanting, and her voice melodious as that of the Syrens. But fair as she is, her appearance never fails to announce some melancholy accident on her native element. It is always considered as a sure prognostication of drowning.

In Celtic mythology to the above named, is added a fourth spirit. When the waters are agitated by a violent current of wind, and streams are swept from their surface and driven before the blast, or whirled in circling eddies aloft in the air, the vulgar, to this day, consider this phenomenon as the effect of the angry spirit operating upon that element. They call it by a very expressive name, the mariach shìne, or the rider of the storm. Anvona is also reckoned as a divinity of the waters, derived from ansadh, a storm or hurricane, a compound from in, a particle of privation and feadh serenity, tranquillity.

[464]Near the kirk of this parish, there is a fountain once highly celebrated, and anciently dedicated to St. Michael. Many a patient have its waters restored to health, and many more have attested to the efficacy of their virtues. But, as the presiding power is sometimes capricious, and apt to desert his charge, it now lies neglected, chocked with weeds, unhonoured, and unfrequented. In better days it was not so; for the winged guardian under the semblance of a fly, was never absent form his duty. If the sober matron wished to know the [465] the issue of her husband’s ailment, or the love-sick nymph, that of her languishing swain, they visited the well of St. Michael. Every movement of the sympathetic fly was regarded in silent awe; and as he appeared cheerful or dejected, the anxious votaries drew their presages; their breasts vibriated with correspondent emotions. Like the Delai Lama of Thibet, or the King of Great Britain, whom a fiction of the English law supposes never to die, the guardian fly of the well of St Michael, was believed to be exempted from the laws of mortality. To the eye of ignorance he might sometimes appear dead, but, agreeably to the druidic system, it was only a transmigration into a similar form, which made little alteration on the real identity. Not later than a fortnight ago, the writer of this account was much entertained, to hear an old man lamenting with regret, the degeneracy of the times; particularly the contempt in which objects of former veneration were held by the unthinking crowd. If the infirmities of years, and the distance of his residence did not prevent him, he would still pay his devotional visits to the well of St. Michael. He would clear the bed of its ooze, open a passage for the streamlet, plant the borders with fragrant flowers; and once more, as in the days of youth, enjoy the pleasure of seeing the guardian fly skim in sportive circles over the babbling wave, and with its little proboscis, imbibe the Panacean dews.

Among the branches into which the moss-grown trunk of superstition divides itself, may be reckoned witchcraft and magic. These, though decayed and withered by time, still retain some faint traces of their ancient verdure. Even at present, witches are supposed, as of old, to ride on broomsticks through the air. In this country, the 12th of May is one of their festivals. On the morning of that day, they are frequently seen dancing on the surface of the water of Avon, brushing the dews of the lawn, and milking cows in their fold. Any uncommon sickness is generally attributed to their demonical practices. They make fields barren or fertile [466]raise, or still whirlwinds, give or take away milk at pleasure. The force of their incantations is not to be resisted, and extends even to the moon in the midst of her aerial career.

It is the good fortune, however, of this country to be provided with an anti-conjurer that defeats both them and their fable patron in their combined efforts. His fame is widely diffused, and wherever he goes, crescit eundo. If the spouse is jealous of her husband, the anti-conjurer is consulted to restore the affections of his bewitched heart. If a near connexion lies confined to the bed of sickness, it is in vain to expect relief without the balsamick medicine of the anti-conjurer. If a person happens to be deprived of his senses, the deranged cells of the brain must be adjusted by the magic charms of the anti-conjurer. If a farmer loses his cattle, the houses must be purified with water sprinkled by him. In searching for the latent mischief, this gentlemen never fails to find little parcels of hetrogeneous ingredients lurking in the walls, consisting of the legs of mice, and the wings of bats; all the work of the witches. Few things seem too arduous for his abilities; and though like Paracelsus, he has not as yet boasted of having discovered the Philosopher’s stone; yet, by the power of his occult science, he still attracts a little of their gold from the pockets where it lodges; and in this way makes a shift to acquire a subsistence for himself and family.

What Dryden said of Shakespear, may, with propriety, be applied to him:
“Shakespear’s magic could not copied be;
Within that circle none durst move but he.”
If the short limits of a statistical essay permitted, more justice might be done to this singular character, but, ex pede [467] Herculem; the outlines already given, will enable fancy to draw the portrait.

Dress

Since the year 1745, there is considerable change on the dress of the people of this district. By a singular kind of policy, as if rebellion lurked in the shape and colour of a coat, at the above period, the ancient dress was proscribed and none durst wear it without running the risk of a rigorous prosecution. It was consequently superseded by the Low Country dress. To the ancient braccae, or truish (Truish, from trus[.] or dress) and belted plaid, succeeded strait breeches, and an awkward coat of a uniform colour; sometimes a long surtout dangling down to the heels, encumbring the freedom of motion. The barbarous policy of Edward the First, did not more effectually destroy the spirit of the indignant Welsh, by the murder of their bards, than the prohibition of their ancient garb, that of the poor Highlanders. In the enthusiasm of patriotism, Mr. Fraser of Lovat got the prohibitory act repealed, in order, according to his own emphatic words, “to divert the minds of the people from Transatlantic notions”. Let metaphysicians, if they choose, trace the connexion. But, though this respectable gentleman, with the view of making them good subjects, procured liberty to the Highlanders of exposing their naked posteriors to the north wind, on their bleak mountains, few have availed themselves of the privilege. Habit reconciles them to the present, and they seem to have no desire of returning to their ancient garb. The blue bonnet, however, with the exception of some round hats, still maintains its ground. Since the year 1745, the women too, like the men, have altered considerably in their apparel. Before that period, they wore sometimes white blankets covering their [468] their heads, sometimes their shoulders, drawn forward by their hands, surrounded on each side by a fold. These, as fashion varied, were succeeded by barred plaids or blankets, where different colours blended, crossing each other at right angles, somewhat distant, and bearing a square space in the middle. Wearied of barred plaids, they betook themselves to Stirling ones, and now duffle cardinals begin to have the ascendant. Formerly their hair flowed in easy ringlets over their shoulders; not many years ago, it was bound behind into a cue, now it spreads into a protuberance on the forehead, supported by cushions; sometimes, it is plain, and split in the middle. But who can describe the caprice of female ornament more various than the changes of the moon!

Manner of Living

Not more than 50 years ago, their mode of living in this country was different from what it is at present. Places that were at that time waste, are now planted with inhabitants. And though sheep, upon the whole, be more numerous than formerly; yet they are chiefly the property of those who occupy the out-skirts, and to whom the hills and glens lie more convenient. In the centrical places, the farms are enlarged, at least as much as the nature of the ground can admit; consequently the smaller tenants are fewer, and live less at their ease: but previous to the above period, even cottagers kept a few sheep, because the hill pasture was a common, and there were few of any descriptions who did not occasionally feed upon flesh. But at present, unless it be at Christmas, or when any little festivals are celebrated, the fold is kept sacred for the market, in order to make money to supply the exigencies of the family, and satisfy the many demands to which it is exposed, from bad seasons, precarious crops, and increasing taxes: besides that, the luxury of the times [469]has imported into this country, inaccessible as it is to other improvements, a portion of factitious wants, which must be gratified. Fifty years ago, they used burnt plates of whisky, instead of that spirit, which must now be diluted with warm water, and sweetened with sugar. It must, however, be acknowledged, that it is seldom they indulge in this beverage; they oftener drink it raw and unmixed. It may easily be supposed that a plant of such universal consumption as tea, should not be unknown to the people of this country. Few of the better families are without it, though sparingly used; and some of the old women, even when they cannot afford sugar, infuse it in boiling water, and drink it for their headachs. These headachs frequently return, but, fortunately by the aid of the grand elixir, they are seldom of long duration.

Character, Etc

The character of a people never fails to change with their changing condition. In contemplating them at the extreme points of a period of 70 or 80 years, it would be as difficult to recognise their identity, as that of Sir John Cutler’s worsted stockings, when scarcely an atom of their original texture remained. Not further removed than the more distant of these extremes, the people of this country were generous and hospitable. If they were occasionally subject to the foibles, they possessed the virtues of genuine Highlanders. If they resented injuries with vehemence and passion, their breasts felt the glow of affection and friendship. Attached to their chieftain, they followed his standard wherever it led; and never shrunk from danger in the defense of his cause: Connected with the freebooters of Lochaber, they imbibed no inconsiderable portion of their spirit and manners; Address and stratagem marked their enterprises: Active abroad, [470] they were indolent at home: Addicted to depredation, they neglected the arts of industry and agriculture: Disengaged from those pursuits that require vigour and exertion, they passed the vacant hour in social enjoyment, in song and festivity, and in listening to the tale of other years: Rude in their manners, their bosoms frequently opened to the warm impressions of a disinterested benevolence. The indigent and stranger found them always ready to sympathize with their distress. What Paul the Deacon, in his barbarous Latin, said of the Lombards of Italy, might be applied to them:

Terribilis facies, hirsutaque barba,
Sed corda benigna fuerunt

A dreadful countenance, with rough beards, but with hearts benevolent.

But in contemplating the nearer extreme of the above period, a different picture appears. The spirit of commerce which, in a certain degree has pervaded every corner of the Highlands, with its natural concomitants, avarice and selfishness, has penetrated hither. In the private views of the individual, the interests of the community are disregarded. Cunning has supplanted sincerity, and dissimulation candour; Profession supplies the place of reality, and flattery is used as a lure to betray the unwary. Obligations are rewarded by ingratitude; and when the favour is past, promises cease to be binding; and the most successful in the arts of deception acquires the esteem of uncommon merit and abilities. It may therefore be supposed, that, in a field where the prize is so attractive, [471] there will be many candidates. To aid them in this career of ambition, it must be acknowledged, in alleviation of their bias, that they have had models of imitation not unworthy of the doctrines of Machiavel. Unfortunately for them, these models have been strangers, and of that rank in life who have always the most powerful influence in making proselytes among the vulgar.
Such are the causes to which it must be imputed, that there is so little discrimination to be observed in the character of the people of this country; for, where one object is pursued, the means of attainment will be generally uniform. Suspended between barbarism and civilization, the mind is never so strongly influenced by virtue, as it is attracted by the magnetism of vice. In this view, however, they are not singular from their neighbours. From a combination of causes, particularly high taxation, and increasing commerce, avarice and selfishness must necessarily constitute a prominent feature in the character of many. At the same time, there may still be found the usual proportion of persons of a different character, conspicuous for honour and integrity, humane and benevolent, just and upright in their transactions.

Miscellaneous Observations

It has been observed, that the centrical parts of this country lie at a considerable distance from moss, which is yearly diminishing in proportion to the consumption. From the increase of population, and as the natural woods are everywhere decaying, the period is approaching, when the Highlands must sensibly feel the difficulty of procuring the necessary accommodation of fuel. To anticipate such an event, is an object that peculiarly calls for the attention of proprietors.

There are few of this description in the Highlands, who are not possessed of considerable tracks [472] of moor and hill. In this district, there are at least 18,000 acres that lie barren, and at present of little value. This space of ground laid under fir, would contain at a moderate calculation, 80,000,000 plants, exclusive of the forest of Glenavon, and without much injury to the pasture. By converting the waste ground to this purpose, the rent of the proprietors would increase, while the farmer would be supplied in fuel, and materials for building. Plantations of fir so extensive, may appear an arduous undertaking; but by giving farmers long leases, indemnifying them at removal, appropriating a portion of the rent for the purpose, and various methods that might be devised, it might be successfully carried into execution; and when accomplished, would be worthy of a great and patriotic proprietor. It has been asserted, that moss grows; but this is a fallacy too obvious to be credited. Being the production of wood and moisture, it is well known from experience, that when the component ingredients are once exhausted, the substance itself cannot be reproduced. Upon the formation of moss, there is a curious fact mentioned by Lord Cromarty, and recorded in the 5th volume of the Abridgement of the Philosophical Transactions.

In the year 1651, his lordship being then 19 years of age, he saw a plain in the parish of Lochbroom, covered with a firm standing wood, which was so old, that not only the trees had no green leaves, but the bark was totally thrown off, which he was there informed, by the old people, was the universal manner in which fir wood terminated, and that in 20 or 30 years the trees would cast themselves up by the roots. Abut 15 years afterwards, he had occasion to travel that way, and observed that there was not a tree, nor the appearance of a root, of any of them: but that, in their place, the whole plain where the wood stood, was covered with a flat green moss, or morass and, on asking the country people what was become of the wood, he was answered, that on one had been at the trouble of carrying it away, but that it had been overturned by the wind; that the trees lay thick over one another; and that [473] the moss or bog had overgrown the whole timber, which they added, was occasioned by the moisture which came down from the high hills, and stagnated upon the plain and that nobody could yet pass over it, which, however, his lordship was so incautious as to attempt, and slipt up to the arm-pit. Before the year 1699, that whole piece of ground was become a solid moss, where the peasants dug turf or peat, which, however, was not yet of the best sort.

[473]No complaint seems to be more universal over the Highlands, nor in this country in particular, than the increasing inclemency of the seasons. Modern philosophers attribute this phenomenon to the vast shoals of ice accumulating in the northern seas. But whatever be the cause, the opinion of the effect prevails among the people. Since the year 1768, they observe, that the summers are colder, and productive of greater quantities of rain, than was remembered in the same space of time, during any preceding period. The assertion, though conjectural, appears to be founded upon probability. Even within these 20 last years, the beds of brooks and rivers are considerably enlarged, and much of the contiguous grounds destroyed by floods. The trouts, that formerly swarmed in lakes and rivers, are exceedingly decreased. The few migratory birds that visit the country, are later in their arrival, and sooner take their departure: The hum of the mountain bee is not so frequently heard: even the insect tribes that fluttered in the air of a warm summer, are less prolifick than usual. In Glenavon, of this parish, are mosses, near 3000 feet above the level of the sea, full of fir root; where no wood at present, owing to the cold, could grow. Some of the highest hills in the Grampian desert, are denominated from the wood which formerly grew upon them, such as beinn a charoin, the mountain of the service tree,. Are there then appearances the result of a temporary cessation, or has nature become more languid in her energies? Such, however, are the assertions of the old people, the never-failing [474] panegyrists of the times, that are elapsed. Mr. Hume, and the Abbè du Bois, are of a different opinion, and assert, that in ancient times, the seasons were colder than at present, but the facts adduced by these respectable writers are too vague and remote to overthrow the experience of feeling.

William the Norman, after the conquest of England, surveyed that country, and committed the admeasurement to Doomsday Book, designed to be a permanent record of the nature and value of the soil; that gradation of offices, and those institutions which he embraced in his political scheme. The imitation of a model that might be so conducive to promote the welfare of the great body of the people employed in agriculture, should perhaps, with that variation required by circumstances, be in some measure adopted by all the proprietors in Scotland. It is well known that the value of land must rise or fall, according to the flourishing or declining condition of the state. Reason dictates that it is by this criterion the rents of a landlord ought to be regulated. When at a certain term lands are to be let, and exposed, as it were to a public sale, the highest bidder to have the preference, it must occur, that in such a collision of passions, and jarring interests, as must necessarily arise upon those occasions, the desperate and unprincipled will frequently be preferred to the honest and industrious; besides that, the rents of some farms will be low and moderate, while that of others will be high and exorbitant. To prevent, therefore, this inequality, and to extend distributive justice to every individual, proprietors should not only survey their properties, but also affix a value to the farms, according to the value of the productions at the time, and the probable continuance of that value. Every circumstances of convenience and inconvenience, whether with regard to fuel, the nature of the soil, and the condition of the farm, should likewise be taken under consideration, and a rent proportionate affixed.

Judicious men acquainted with the place, and obliged, by proper sanctions, to observe a strict impartiality, would perhaps be the most proper to accomplish such a desirable object. These hints may appear chimeral, but there would be no harm in the experiment; and, if practicable, might prove highly advantageous, both to the proprietor and tenant, by promoting their reciprocal interests. Such a plan, without having recourse to the levelling principle of modern innovations, might have a happy tendency in diffusing the comforts of life more equally, and at the same time, maintain that distinction of ranks so necessary to the existence of society.