Quoad Sacra Parish of ROTHIEMURCHUS [part of the Parish of Duthil]
Presbytery of Abernethy, Synod of Moray
Rapporteur: The Rev. William Grant, Minister.
Drawn up by Mr W. Dunbar, Parochial Schoolmaster of Duthil.

[Biographical Notes for the Minister adapted from the Fasti ecclesiae Scoticanae
WILLIAM GRANT (1786-1862) born at Dalrachny in Duthil, son of James Grant, farmer, and Ann Stewart; educated at King's College, Aberdeen (MA 1806); licensed by Presbytery of Abernethy 26th April 1810; ordained to Kirkmichael 30th July 1817; presented (to Duthil) by the curator of Lewis Alexander Grant, Earl of Seafield, November 1819; translated and admitted 28th March 1820. He was buried at Aberlour.
He was an accomplished scholar, took a deep interest in education, and assisted to endow schools in his parish.
He married, 17th August 1824, Mary (who died 1868, aged 76), daughter of James Garioch, surgeon, Old Meldrum, and had issue —

James, Army surgeon;
George, died 4th July 1836;
Mary Ann (married 1st November 1849, Provost Alexander Mann, Nairn);
Elizabeth (married 23rd March 1848, Captain Stewart, Inverness);
Jane Elizabeth (married 23rd March 1848, John Stewart, lieut., 21st Foot).]

I: Topography and Natural History.

Name

[136]Its present, which is also its ancient name, is derived from the Gaelic, Rath a' mhor-ghiuthais, signifying the plain of the great pines. Its name is suited to the appearance of the country, which is either covered with the debris of the ancient forest, or with a thriving young plantation of pine of natural growth.

Extent and Boundaries

The parish is about seven miles in length, and ten miles in breadth, bounded on the north by the river Spey, separating it from Duthil and Alvie; on the east, by the united parishes of Abernethy and Kincardine; on the south and southeast, by the united parishes of Crathie and Braemar in Aberdeenshire; and on the west, by that portion of the parish of Alvie which lies upon the south side of the river Spey.

Topographical Appearance,&c.

This district presents a great variety of surface, consisting of beautiful tracts of level ground well cultivated, knolly eminences, covered with birch, Scotch fir, larch, [137] and different kinds of hardwood; while in the background, and at the base of the lofty Cairngorum range, extends the large forest of pine, which renders this property so valuable. Near the west end of the parish is the Ord-bàn, (white hill), a hill standing solitary in advance of the great Grampian chain, beautifully wooded to near the summit, and presenting the rather uncommmon appearance in the Highlands, of a mountain decorated with green verdure. There are excellent lime quarries.

Along the base of this hill to the south, stretches Loch-an-Eilean, (lake of the island), more than a mile in length, and varying from half-a-mile to a quarter of mile in breadth. Upon its banks grow the weeping-birch and some fine specimens of the tall sombre pine, remains of the old forest. This lake contains an island where are the ruins of a castle, of which tradition speaks as one of the strongholds of the Wolf of Badenoch, celebrated for his burning of the Elgin Cathedral. It is chiefly remarkable in the present day for a very distinct echo, whose reverberations among the surrounding mountains have a very fine effect. Southwards, about half-a-mile from Loch-an-Eilean, is Loch Gamhuinn, encircled by the tall dark pine, in harmony with the wild Alpine scenery around. Along the margin of this lake, runs Rathad-na-meirlich (thieves' road) the common pass of the Lochaber reivers in their excursions to Morayland; and it is probable that this was the scene of some striking event in their history, as the name of the lake (Loch of the Steers) has an affinity to their desperate and unlawful calling. Overhanging these two lakes on the south, is the branch mountain of Inch Riach, which, with the Brae Riach, still further south, and belonging to the great chain, forms Glen-Ennich, a good pasturage for sheep. In this glen, which is of considerable extent, are several lakes, the chief of which is Loch-Ennich, surrounded upon al1 sides but one, by precipices of striking grandeur and majestic height.

The Brae Riach, above alluded to, is upwards of 4000 feet above the level of the sea, of a table shape, with numerous corries, affording shelter for the red deer and ptarmigan; abounding with precipices dangerous to the hunter; and the resort of gem-collectors in search of the Cairngorum quartz. Near the summit of this part of the Grampian range, about a mile distant from the boundary of the parish, is the source of the river Dee in Aberdeenshire, called by the country people the Wells of Dee. These wells are about a dozen in number, which unite their streams, and pass [138] in the course of a few miles, through scenery of surpassing sublimity and grandeur.

To the east of Glen-Ennich, and about the centre of the parish, there is a bold pass through the mountains, named in the language of the country, Larich-ruadh, or red pass. Through this narrow gulley, a foot-path has been formed with much trouble by the removal of immense blocks of granite, which hare fallen from the adjoining precipices on either side of the pass, with the view of communicating with the southern markets by a shorter route than the great Highland road presents.

The task of bringing cattle through this pass is one of difficulty and danger; but a pedestrian, fond of the grand in nature, will have his toils amply repaid, while he wends his way along the base of the lofty Ben-Mac-dui. The shoulder of this mountain forms in this direction the boundary of the parish.

Soil

Along the banks of the Spey, the soil is a rich alluvial deposit, producing heavy crops, but subject in rainy seasons to inundations of the river. The higher grounds are more secure but less fertile.

Hydrography

Lakes and streams abound. Loch-an-Eilean and Loch-Gamhuinn to the west, Loch-Ennich to the south, and Loch-Morlich to the east, with many others of inferior note, are made serviceable, with the aid of numberless streams descending from the mountains, for the purpose of floating timber to the Spey, whence it is conveyed to Garmouth or the Moray Frith. The whole surface of the parish is indented with lakes, which, while they add to the beauty of the country, greatly enhance the value of the forest, by affording a cheap mode of conveyance. The Benie, Luinac, Altruadh, and Druie, are the names by which the .principal streams are designated.

Fishes and Game

Salmon, trout, eels, and pike, are found in abundance in the Spey; and pike, eels, and trout of a very fine quality are produced by the lakes. In Loch-Ennich, char are found. The forest, half a century ago, was the resort of herds of red-deer and roe. Few of these are now met with, the sheep having occupied their place. Black game, pheasants, partridges, hares, rabbits and especially ptarmigan abound.

Birds and Beasts of Prey

The black eagle, the denizen of the mountains, occasionally visits the shepherd's flock, and the cunning fox still .rears her cubs in the inaccessible wilds of Brae Riach. The osprey builds her nest and nurtures her young on [139] the top of one of the turrets of Loch-an-Eilean Castle, and supplies herself with food from the neighbouring lakes and streams, while the cormorant, on the glassy surface of the lake, swims slowly along, watchful to pounce on the finny tribe beneath.

Forests

The greater part of the parish is covered with forest, calculated to extend over a surface of sixteen miles. It is now about forty years since the proprietor procured an act of Parliament to enable him to manufacture timber to an unlimited extent. During many years of that period, particularly during the late war, he derived an annual income varying from £10,000 to £20,000. The result is that only a few remnants of the ancient forest now appear, though these cannot fail to impress the mind of the beholder with a vivid picture of its former glory. Not only the pine, but also the birch, grows luxuriantly in the parish. The alder appears in great vigour by the banks of the various rivulets, and on the lower grounds different kinds of hard-wood, as oak, lime, beech, and ash of goodly dimensions, adorn the policies of the demesne. Plantations of larch have been successfully tried in various ports of the property, which promise a rich return, and prove the soil to be well adapted fur the growth of this ornamental and useful tree. For the purpose of manufacturing a portion of the timber into deals and staves, &c. both for foreign and domestic use, a handsome wooden building was erected several years ago, containing' machinery capable of setting in motion ten circular saws, and an upright frame of eight plain saws. When in full operation, it required a force of from ten to fifteen men to work these, and a boy to increase or diminish the volume of water deemed necessary for the operations. When manufactured, the wood was floated down the Spey in large rafts, conducted by two men, to the village of Garmouth, where a manager always resided to preside over the sales.

II: Civil History

History speaks not with certainty regarding the original proprietors of this district of country, but tradition and probability point to the Cumming race as lords of Badenoch, Rothiemurchus and Strathspey. When that name lorded it over the neighbouring lands, it is not probable that Rothiemurchus, centrically situated as it is, would have escaped this yoke. After the times of Robert the Bruce, their power was broken, and their influence and possession passed into other hands.

The Shaws succeeded the Cummings in the possession of this property. A feud [140] existed between the two races, carried on with various success, until finally the Shaws triumphed by stratagem. Tradition speaks of the bloody catastrophe. The leading men of the Cummings were upon an excursion to the low country, and the Shaws, apprized of this circumstance, resolved to waylay them upon their return and effect their ruin. The latter placed a sentinel upon the summit of the Calart hill, at the eastern boundary of the parish, with instructions to give a preconcerted signal as to the route of the Cummings, north or south of that hill. Their plan thus matured was followed up, and the hour at length arrived when the hostile parties met. A desperate encounter took place, and the Shaws prevailed. Not one of the foe escaped, and thus the sword effected what the law dared not accomplish. At the base of the Calari, there is a hollow still known by the name of Lag-na-Cuimminich, indicative of the spot where the tragedy was acted.

A day of retributive justice at length overtook the race of Shaw for this deed of blood. The last of that name who held the property, actuated by a spirit of malignant envy, murdered his step-father, the Dallas, an act which so irritated the mother of the youth, that, collecting the deeds and instruments by which her son could hope to hold the property, she escaped to Castle Grant, and surrendered to John Grant of Freuchy the whole rights and interests of the young Shaw. The Laird of Grant having thus acquired those lands, gifted them to his second son Patrick, who, towards the close of the sixteenth century, took possession, and since that period till the present day, his descendants have been in the quiet and secure enjoyment of this inheritance. Connected with the history of the parish is the slaughter of one of the Earls of Athole, who, fleeing before his enemies, was surprized and murdered, when taking shelter behind a large stone near the summit of Inch Riach, called to this day, in allusion to this event, Clach-Mhic-Allan, the Earl of Athole's Stone.

Eminent Characters

We are not aware of any names of celebrity, either in the arts or sciences, connected with the parish. Tradition hands down the names of several individuals eminent in their day for deeds of active strife. Macalpine and Tighearna Bàne, lairds of Rothiemurchus, are names endeared to the inhabitants, more by the record of their services in the cause of benevolence, than by any remarkable traits of character or talents peculiar to themselves. John Roy Stewart, one of Prince Charlie's Colonels, and a native of Kincardine, in this [141] vicinity, fled from the field of Culloden and concealed himself for many years in the forests of Glenmora and Rothiemurchus, whence at length he effected his escape to France, where he died. Some of his descendants yet live in this parish, and retain the affectionate remembrance of acts of kindness shown them by their relative while an exile and in the service of the King of France.

Land-owners

Sir J. P. Grant, Knight, Puisne Judge at Calcutta, is the sole proprietor of the parish; a gentleman of acknowledged talent, and eminent for his services in the cause of civil liberty. When acting in the capacity of judge at Bombay, he supported the dignity of the Bench by asserting, in opposition to the then governor, Sir John Malcolm, the rights of the native population as British citizens, to the privileges conferred by law. As he could not conform to the despotic views of the reigning government, he resigned his office, but was a few years thereafter restored to the Bench, (where he now sits,} by a succeeding government.

Parochial Registers

The earliest entries for both baptisms and marriages are in the year 1774. The registers have been always kept distinct from those of Duthil, but have not been regularly kept till within the last dozen years.

Antiquities

The Castle of Loch-an-Eilean is the only antiquity in the parish. It stands upon an island evidently artificially formed in a part of the lake of great depth. The remains of a path-way from the mainland are easily traced. The records of the family now in possession of the property, speak of it as a ruin two centuries ago; and the date of its erection; indeed, the purposes for which it was originally built, are hid in obscurity, antiquarians disputing whether it was intended as a stronghold or a religious house. Tradition refers it to the era of the Cummings, as one of their houses of retreat, during the early feudal broils.

Modern Buildings

The mansion-house at the Doune, the residence of the proprietor, is the only building of note in the parish. It is a modern building without architectural pretensions, pleasantly situated on the banks of the river Spey, surrounded by shrubberies of great taste, and the policies around beautifully wooded. No situation on the banks of the Spey possesses greater attractions. The garden, placed at a short distance from the mansion, in a deep dell among rich plantations, has had its natural features much improved through the taste of the late Duke of Bedford and his amiable [142] Duchess, who chose this as their favourite summer residence. Its inequalities of surface, so unusual in modern gardens, its natural and artificial beauties, and the picturesque character of the vicinity, have attracted many delighted visitors.

III: Population

The population has been gradually decreasing for the last ten years. In 1831, it amounted to upwards of 600 souls, while the last census, in 1841; gives the number of 321. To account for this decrease, the fact presents itself, that a surplus population was introduced into the parish by the influx of strangers, for the purpose of assisting in the manufacture of wood, which being now at a close, compels many to seek for other localities where labour is more in demand.

Language and Customs

The foregoing circumstance, the in-flux of strangers, also explains the more general prevalence of the English language in this district, than in the neighbouring parishes. The Gaelic still retains its hold among the aged, but the young manifest great anxiety to acquire the knowledge of the more useful English.

Not only has smuggling ceased, but penny-bridals and extravagant festivity at funerals have, it is to be hoped, been for ever abolished. The games wont to ha practised here and throughout the Highlands are forgotten; and instead, the young men betake themselves on holidays to the practice of shooting at a target.

IV: Industry

Those who devote themselves to husbandry are not behind their neighbours in the march of progressive improvement, and they enjoy great advantages from the lime-quarries in the parish, and the facility with which, through the landlord's kindness, they can procure fuel to burn the limestone. A sufficient quantity of produce, such as oats, bear, potatoes, and turnips, is raised for home consumption. This was not the case at a late period. It is a fact, that a farmer not long since deceased, grew turnips upon trial, but felt greatly disappointed at the result, alleging that they enabled his cattle to consume too much fodder – so that the practice was at that time abandoned. Experience has taught the present generation a different lesson.

The labouring portion of the population have acquired much of the improvident character peculiar to manufacturing districts, live generally in extremes either in extravagant abundance or destitution. . Necessity the mother of invention, is gradually accomplishing [143] the overthrow of habits of wasteful expenditure; and frugality is likely, ere long, to be acknowledged as a virtue.

V: Parochial Economy

Market-Towns

There are none in the parish, the nearest being Inverness, at the distance of thirty-three miles. The villages of Grantown, distant sixteen miles, Kingussie, twelve miles, and Castletown of Braemar, thirty miles, are the resort of the farmers for the sale of their cattle.

Means of Communication

Along the southern bank of the Spey runs a line of county road, stretching from Craigellachie bridge, near Rothes, to the Bridge of Spey, near Kingussie, and passing through this parish. Communication is kept up with the great Highland road by means of a ferry-boat across the Spey at Inverdruie, distant from the line about half a mile, and by several private boats. The sub post-office, at Lynwilg, on the north bank of the Spey, distant two miles, is the receiving-office of the district. The royal mail conveys letter bags to this office from Perth, Inverness, Carr Bridge, and Kingussie.

Ecclesiastical State

This was at one period a distinct parish from Duthil. It was disunited and formed into a quoad sacra parish, by Act of Parliament V. Geo. IV. cap. 90, in the year 1624. The present church, situated to the west of the mansionhouse of the Doune, and surrounded by a belt of planting and an efficient dike, was rebuilt by Sir J. P. Grant, at an expense of £395. The manse, situated at the base of the Ord-bàne, half a-mile distant from the church, was completed by the commissioners under the above act in the year 1830, at an expense of nearly £750; and the present incumbent was inducted in September of that year. The church is in a state of good repair; but the manse having been very carelessly constructed, notwithstanding the scandalously enormous expense incurred by Government in its erection, requires attention and an occasional outlay of money by the minister, in order to keep it in a proper condition. The garden wall is a hideous object, and built in so slovenly a manner, that portions of it are continually toppling to the ground. The glebe, inclusive of the garden and site of the manse, contains four acres, one rood, and two falls. The stipend amounts to £120 per annum, without any allowance for communion elements.

There are no Dissenters in the parish, with the exception of one Roman Catholic, and one family of the Baptist communion. The number of communicants is about 60.

Education

[144]There is but one school in the parish, centrically situated. The salary attached to the office, and paid by the proprietor, is £10 per annum. Advantage has not hitherto been taken of the late Highland School Act. The attendance at school averages from 50 to 70; and were it not for the poverty of the people, and the smallness of the salary, which prevents the teacher from bestowing gratuitous education upon any, nearly double this number would avail themselves of the opportunity of receiving instruction, so much desiderated by the whole body of the people. None of the charitable educational societies of Scotland has yet stepped forward with a helping hand to aid in this benevolent object.

Poor and Parochial Funds

The funds for the relief of the poor are derived from collections in church, donations, and the interest on a small fund lodged in the bank. Through the liberality of the late Duke of Bedford, the present Dowager Duchess of Bedford, and the kind interest taken in the welfare of the poor, by Mrs J. G. Craig, Edinburgh, daughter to Sir J. P. Grant, the annual funds have averaged between £50 and £70 per annum, for the last ten years, which has placed the poor in a state of comparative comfort.

Fuel, &c

The common fuel is peats and wood, of which there is great abundance in the parish.


No fairs are held in this parish, and the only public-house is one at the boat-house of Inverdruie.

February 1842.